1970 Monza Red Corvete 350/350 4 Speed Coupe Survivor-71K Miles - Documents!

Description for Chevrolet Corvette 1970

Great Christmas Idea!! Gift for Yourself or for Your Loved One!! Forget numbers matching – that only means the engine block supposedly matches the car VIN. This vehicle is numbers crazy – most fasteners on this car are the originals from the GM production line. An NCRS level restoration is easily possible. This well-kept California 1970 Corvette Coupe is Monza Red with Saddle Tan Leather ‘Custom’ interior. Current owner (me) purchased this vehicle 12 years ago. The paint is good for being 45 years old. Over the years I have accumulated just about everything needed to take this car to the highest level of NCRS judging – I just did not have the heart to turn my fun car into a piece of furniture. The Specs (as built): 1970 Corvette Coupe L46 – Optional 350 HP / 350 cu in – 11:00 to 1 Compression Ratio – 380 Ft. Lbs. Torque M21 – 4 Speed Close Ratio Transmission Trim Code 424 – Saddle (Tan) Leather Seats and Custom Interior Color Code 974 – Monza Red A31 – Power Windows N37 – Tilt / Telescopic Steering Wheel N40 – Power Steering J50 – Power Brakes U69 – AM – FM Stereo Radio UA6 – Audio Alarm System NA9 – Evaporative Emissions Control ZQ9 – (4. 11 / 1 Positraction) Performance Rear Axle Ratio Documentation: Original Window Sticker Protecto Plate (Showing the original owner’s name) Original Owners Manual with Corvette News magazine tear out still there Trim ring and radio instructions Consumer Information Flyer Original Chevrolet plastic bag Delivery Documents from Val Strough Chevrolet in Oakland CA Build Sheet (found in dash while repairing odometer drive – tank sticker is presumed to be on the tank -- placing an extra copy elsewhere was a common assembly line practice in the day) A box of receipts with most every oil change. tire replacement. battery. etc. from day 1 with owner history This car was originally sold on June 8. 1970 to an MD in Oakland. his 4th and final Corvette (’61. ’63 split window. ’67 427/425). It came off the production line on May 25. during the strike-shortened 1970 model production year. 1970 GM cars. and Corvettes in particular have among the lowest production numbers since the early 1950’s. This car has clearly been garaged its whole life. Frame rails and normal corrosion points show ZERO signs of rust. ever. There are dings and checking in the paint. and some respray in a number of areas. I estimate 60+% of the original paint still shows. and shows well. The bumpers are original. The first owner had the dealer install a non-GM luggage rack. It swings up (unlike the GM unit) for easy cleaning underneath. With the 4. 11 gears. this car was not freeway friendly (3500 rpm at 70 mph). which accounts for the low miles. Over the years. amazingly few of the original parts disappeared. A partial listing is as below: Engine block – Casting Code 3970 010 Date Code D 1 0 (April 1. 1970) Engine Pad Stamping – V0406CTH 70S410xxx – Machined April 6. 1970 – 10xxx matches VIN Cylinder Head Casting and Date Codes – 3927186 D 1 0 and D 2 0 – April 1 and 2. 1970 Exhaust Manifold Casting and Date Codes – 3932465 D 3 0 (RH) and 3846559 D 19 0 (LH) Intake Manifold Casting and Date Codes – 3965577 D 3 0 (April 3. 1970) Bell Housing Casting Code – 3899621 (Much sought after aluminum 11” housing) Transmission Casting and Stamping Codes – 3925661 – P0E15B 70S410xxx (Main Case) (410xxx matches VIN) 3857584 (Tail) May 15. 1970 Transmission shift cover casting and aluminum tag – 3953648 and 3968011 WL Rear Differential Casting and Date Codes – 3899143 B 4 0 CAP 03 19 W E (4. 11/1) (March 19. 1970) Distributor Tag – 1112021 0 B 23 (February 23. 1970) Alternator Stamping – 1100 900 0 E 11 (May 11. 1970) Fan Clutch Date Code – 5-5-70 Power Steering Pump Date Code – 097B-00 (Day 97 of 1970 – April 7) Water Pump Casting and Date Code – 9782608 G 8 0 (July 8. 1970 - slightly out of spec) Starter Stamping and Date Codes – 1108338 0 A 13 (January 13. 1970) Starter Solenoid – 1114362 (‘Z-28’. ‘LT-1’ and high compression specific) Master Cylinder -- 5480348 0 D 1 (April 1. 1970) Window ‘Astro Ventilation’ Codes – DOT 15 MT 4 (both sides) -- Correct markings Windshield and Pop Out Rear Window Codes – DOT 15 M4 and DOT M58 respectively -- Correct markings Passenger Side Mirror – 07 DC A6 (Looks to have been moved from driver's side) T-Top Bags Stamping and Date Code – TEX 3-70 Rally Wheel Date Codes – K-1-0 3 23 AZ (March 23. 1970 - all five) BR270 ‘LT-1’ ‘Z-28’ Coil Jack and Jack Tools (‘A’ on Saddle – 0 D on jack scissor leg) Jack compartment cubby box - Original. Dated The original trim rings are scratched and curb rashed and reside in a box. These can be easily restored. Nice SS repops are currently mounted. The original radio is in the car and works well. The original distributor is in the car. The car runs 93 octane gas with this 11:1 motor getting no pinging or preignition whatsoever under any load or temperature conditions. I also can still dial in the 35 - 37 degrees of BTDC advance that this motor loves. Over $9. 00 was spent when the crankshaft rear main seal started leaking (big surprise!) to go through the engine with my typical meticulous attention to detail. Factory original TRW forged pistons (. 030 over) were mounted with new wrist pins to the original ‘pink’ rods which (after shot peening and magnafluxing) were attached with new ARP bolts to the . 010/. 010 trued original 4 bolt main crankshaft. also secured with new ARP bolts. Of course. modern chrome-moly rings and new bearings were installed all around. A high volume oil pump. Cloyes true roller timing chain and steel gears guarantee a solid bottom end and timing set. The original oil pan with windage tray and timing cover were retained. Although I have the original and an NOS L46 camshaft. I opted for a Lunati ‘010’ grind. which is more durable than the notoriously soft-lobed cams of the day and very. very close spec-wise. I also used Crane Cams high rate valve springs and titanium keepers with Crane roller tip rockers and push rods that fit under the original valve covers. I secured everything with new ARP screw-in rocker studs and push rod guide plates. The entire rolling engine assembly was balanced and rechecked to original specifications and clearances (‘blueprinted’). All of the original parts were. of course. saved. The heads (after shot peening and magnafluxing) were also treated to a five-angle valve job. stainless valves and a no-lead conversion (hardened seats). I spent 9 hours hand polishing the original valve covers to like-new condition. The carburetor is original with correct casting/date code. Air cleaner top and bottom halves. flame arrester and stickers are original. I have several original vacuum advance bypass valves and hoses that could be installed. As originally designed. this system prevents full vacuum advance until you are in fourth gear. The transmission was completely disassembled. all sychros were replaced (nothing wrong. just being thorough) and the mainshaft. all seals. o-rings and gaskets were replaced. The original pressure plate was disassembled. wave springs re-arched then installed and the whole mess was re-riveted. resurfaced and balanced. The flywheel was resurfaced. then balanced. A thicker than stock 11-inch friction disc (clutch plate) was installed along with a new throw-out bearing. While the motor was out. the engine bay was detailed with special attention to retaining all of the original looks. nbsp; wiring looms. and holders. All of the vacuum cans (wiper door. headlights. etc. ) are original. A new transmission tunnel heat shield was installed. After detailing. new emissions stickers (49 state and California specific) were installed. The old stickers were photographed and the assembly line misalignment of the originals was replicated when installing the replacements. I installed an LT-1 style 2-1/2 inch aluminized dual exhaust. adding a crossover pipe behind the transmission. This runs through a set of 70 series Flowmasters and out the original location through new reproduction exhaust tips. This thing sounds unbelievable. Most times I drive without the radio on just to listen to the music from under the hood and out the back. The radiator is the original Harrison brass tank cross flow unit used on LT-1’s and big blocks without an overflow tank. It works well and had never been out of the car with all of the original gaskets and foam trim still in place so I did not mess with any of it. New top and bottom radiator hoses were installed (with correct GM markings). Same thing goes for the fan and PS belts. A new thermostat and NOS (now very rare) 15# radiator cap were installed. I also installed new heater hoses while at it. albeit without the correct GM markings. A new power steering slave cylinder was installed along with an NOS drag link. A year or so ago I had my Corvette guy go through the entire suspension from end to end. We replaced all of the original bushings in the A-frames. leaf springs. trailing arms and in all of the moving parts. along with tie rod ends. ball joints and anything else that might induce any steering issues. This baby is T-I-G-H-T. A complete set of black Delco shocks were installed that look like period originals. The brake calipers had already been changed so were not date code correct. One more sprung a leak so I replaced the front pair with correct Delco Morraine units (stainless sleeved) with who cares date codes. Matched date code replacements are available from many sources at extremely reasonable prices. The power brake vacuum booster took a dump a month or two ago. I replaced it with an exact reproduction and saved the original unit for rebuilding. Front wheel bearings and inner and outer rear bearings were replaced as well as all drive and half shaft universal joints that showed any signs of wear. All interior and exterior lights (including the fiber optics) work as they should. The headlight doors open and slam shut. The wiper door opens as it should and waves bye-bye when turned off. The original T-3 headlights are in place. I have never filled the windshield washer system. but everything including the headlight washer hardware is original and still in place. with the 1970-only 5 port wiper and washer motor. All vacuum hoses under the hood are unmolested and original. I bypassed the charcoal can evaporative system capping off the original vacuum hoses. An NOS can is in a box. Bottom line – the interior is just about 100% original. The original shoulder belts were getting frayed. so I found an NOS set with 1975 date codes and installed them. The originals with their tags intact are in a box and can be easily restored by Snake Oylz in Texas. I also have reproduction date tags to install if the shoulder and lap belts (still in good condition) get restored. The car is as original as is possible. The carpeting and leather seat covers show their age – one hole at driver’s heel in the carpet. but not bad. I also have a set of NOS keys with knockouts still in them. not yet cut or stamped. All of the locks – ignition. doors. security and spare tire – are the originals. Cigarette lighter looks like it has never been used. Heck. the battery box drain tubes are still in place. An original NOS Delco self-winding clock is in the car. A number of the original yellow frame markings are still visible on the chassis. This car runs like it would have on Sunoco 260 back in the day. The tires are a completely fresh set of Goodrich T/A’s. black side out. The spare is an original Firestone F70. If you are not familiar with the L-46 package. this was basically a hydraulically-cammed LT-1. No aluminum intake. but the correct 6000-rpm tach and all the racy goodies are there. As originally ordered. the good doctor wanted a luxury racecar. I am sure he kicked major butt on the Bay Area street scene in 1970. In 1971 all compression ratios were reduced. so this was the last old-school high compression year to get your jollies until modern times. Most rebuilds of these high performance engines drop the compression ratio to compensate for lower octane gas now available – not so here. Recent hip and knee replacement make getting into and out of this car a major chore. If you are looking for a car with history that can be documented. that is not ‘restored’ with a quick paint job. not hacked and rewired and then cobbled back together. and can be shown for what it is. then this car might be for you. If you actually want to drive your classic. this car will put a smile on your face and drag you right back to the late 60’s and early 70’s without embarrassment. If you want a high dollar trailer queen to win car shows and enter into the NCRS grinder of judging. this car can easily get you there. These last of the steel bumper cars will surely be the next to escalate in price. Volumes of pictures were taken digitally during all of the work to document casting and date codes. A CD-ROM of every picture will be included. The car as rolling today is not a collection of parts assembled over the years to resemble a factory original – it is the real deal as delivered from Saint Louis (way before Bowling Green). A fresh tune-up (plugs. rotor. wires. distributor cap). oil change and a new battery have this car ready for the driving season. A $500 earnest money deposit by PayPal is due within 3 days of auction’s end with the balance due in certified funds or wire transfer (no PayPal) within 10 days or when the vehicle is picked up. whichever is sooner. I can store the car for awhile if desired. sitting in its heated garage right where it is now. I can deliver in about a 150 mile radius of where I live (like Atlanta. Asheville. Knoxville. Chattanooga or Nashville) or will assist in whatever way possible to help get the car to a shipping point. All expenses for shipping of the car and the spare parts belong to the winning bidder. Please examine the pictures carefully and ask all questions before bidding. Buyers with feedback less than 50 or under 95% positive need to verify their status with me before bidding or their bids will be cancelled. Look at my feedback of 700+ with 100% positive responses and trust the system. I am not going anywhere soon. so when you buy. you will know where I live and where I will continue to live. Call my cellular for a discussion as I am on the road constantly (Randy @ 706-455-2186). If you want to talk to my Corvette guy to see what this car is all about. I will be happy to arrange that for you.