1989 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4X4 2-Door '00 4.3 V6 TRUE VORTEC 190HP/250ft.lb 700R4

1989 Chevrolet Blazer for sale in North Brookfield, Massachusetts, United States

Condition: Used
Item location: North Brookfield, Massachusetts, United States
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Blazer
Type: SUV
Trim: Base Sport Utility 2-Door
Year: 1989
Mileage: 110,852
VIN: 1GNCT18Z5K0177327
Color: White
Power options: Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Power Locks, Power Windows
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: 700r4 4-speed auto
Drive type: 4WD
Interior color: Red
Options: Cassette Player, 4-Wheel Drive
Vehicle Title: Clear
Want to buy? Contact seller!

Description for Chevrolet Blazer 1989

Up for sale here is a '89 S10 Blazer 2-DOOR 4x4. See issues above. If you made it this far,please continue.
Don't let it's looksdeceive you. Asthey say, Chrome don'tget ya home!" THOUSANDS of dollars, nd probably 1,000 hours of labor have been spent on getting it mechanically perfect. I would drive this thing to California right now without hesitation if asked to do so. That said, t does need minor mechanical work to be perfect. More on that later. First, he GOOD:
It has a 4.3 V6 (RPO code L35) out of a 2000 GMC Jimmy SLE with an Edelbrock carburetor and intake manifold. No computers or electronics anywhere. Reliable and EASY to fix!! It uses the '00 radiator, ngine mounts, an, nd aluminum transmission lines most of the way back until 6" from the transmission, here they are stepped down to the OEM sized zinc coated steel lines. The original fuel pump and the pressure regulator I had run previously with the carb wereremoved (chasing a fuel problem when it was a chinese eBay ignition parts problem), nd a marine grade reciprocating fuel pump (Walboro FRB-13) with a 1,000 hour salt spray rating, nd a claimed 10k hour PLUS lifespan was installed in it's place. Theengine is AWESOME. Throttle responseis amazing. Always starts right up whether it's -8°F or 95°F. Wife got over 17mpgwith snow tires, old weather, nd the terrible ethanol-diluted winter-blend fuel the state of MA is required to sell. Just about the same as the fuelinjection got in the Jimmy when it was running!Super reliable! Also has a 600w block heater for super fast warm up during the winter months. Everything was done right with no shortcuts taken. Internally the engine was super clean when I had the heads & intake off.
The transmission fluid looked fairly clean from the day I bought it, aybe slighly dark. A Sonnax TV cable corrector linkage wasinstalled with the new carburetor in '11, amp; the cable was CORRECTLY adjusted. I threw a new filter in back around the same time. No problems whatsoever with the transmission other than aharsh 1-2 upshiftwhen cold. In the 6 years we've owned it, othing has changed in the way it operates. It shifts fast and firm in all gears, hich is great for longevity. Pan was nearly spotless when I did the filter. Fluid still looks decent, nd no slipping, ven with the tremendous boost in power thenewer engine brought. I am very tempted to keep this truck around just for the driveline ...
Bought in '09 out of NY, built the truck in '10 & '11 for my wife to commute over 70 milesper day during the winter months, o her summer car wouldn't rust. Since it's intended purpose was winter use, VERY nut & bolt that I removed was coated with anti-seize compound, s were the backsof the aluminum wheels where they mate up with the steel hubs & studs. Extra grounds were run, nd dielectric grease was used on every connection. It's as reliable as a stone ax. No electronics to mess with. It can be tuned,repaired and adjusted with just basic handtools. Everythingworks as it did from the factory (cruise control,torque converter lockup, il pressure gauge). This is a mechanic's dream vehicle!
Rotors (new in '10) turned with new front brakes, ew tailpipe, amp; newgreaseableuniversal joints front and rearwere installed at the beginning of last season ('14). Plugs, ires, ap, otor, nd a complete new HEI control unit, gnition coil, ickup coil, nd terminal block with condenser were installed in '13. Head gaskets, il pump, il pan gaskets, iming cover gaskets, rank seal, alve seals, ntake and exhaust gaskets, amp; rear main seal, amp; new fuel pump (Walboro FRB-13) were all done in '12. Upper and lower ball joints, ew rotors, ew inner & outer tie rod ends, itman and idlerarms,passenger side CV axle, orsion bar bushings, adiator, elts, ulleys, amp; a new fuel tank were done in '10. Rear brakes were done in '09. All lights work. Wipers work on high, ow, nd intermittent, s does the washer fluid spray. Emergency brake works. Power windows, oor locks, verdrive lockup, nd cruise control all work. It drives STRAIGHT, ven after the minor collision with a guardrail my wife had. All thedamage was cosmetic. The core support should have been shimmed in hindsight to fix that gap you see up top.
Steering column was disassembled, nd the notorious 4 Torx bolts in the back were removed, edLoctite was applied, amp; they were allretorqued, o they will NEVER loosen up again. At that time, multifunction switch was installed from my old '91 S10 Blazer I had prior, o repair the turn signals and wiper function. Instrument panel was removed and all bulbs that were not working were replaced.
There's probably 300 other things I've forgotten to mention. I have a manilla folder CHUCK FULL of receipts and little notes on the front about parts, hread pitch and sizes, art numbers, rands, IN #, ulb #'s, tc.
What it needs, r could use:
  • Paint and body work, bviously. Normally Irattle-can the rusty spots each fall, ut I figured I'd leave everything untouched, o you can see the realcondition of the body.
  • A steering box to tighten up the steering a bit. This is very subjective - if your used to modern vehicles, he steering will scare you. If you've owned old cars your whole life, t's not a big deal. Some think it's terrible ... others think there's nothing wrong at all! All of the steeringcomponents have been replaced over the past 5 years, o the box would bethe only thing needed to get rid of the slop in the wheel.
  • Rear wheel cylinders. There is no fluid in the rear portion of the master. Brakes still work great even with the rears not working. I would do a full rear brake job.
  • Interior repairs, ike the headliner re-glued, epair or replace the HVAC control mount, amp; glove compartment cover.
  • Tires for winter
  • Front differential repair for 4x4 engagement. The vacuumsystem and diaphragm, amp; the transfer case are all working great. The light even comes on indicating 4x4, ut there is no connection between front driveshaft and front wheels. I WILL INCLUDE A '00 JIMMY FRONT DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY (same truck engine came from) TO USE FOR PARTS! FREE!!!
  • Shims under core support, o close gap top to bottom of fender to hood.
As she sits, t runs and drives no problem. The above repairs would all be optional EXCEPT the brakes.
Now, n this day and age, have to mention ... this is a 26 year old vehicle, nd it MAY need a few things that Idid NOT mention in this ad. Please bear that in mind BEFORE PURCHASE.
Bottom line is, he might not be pretty, ut she'll get you home without fail. With a little effort this would make an AWESOME off road machine, aily driver, arm truck,survival vehicle - you name it!
For any questions, on'thesitate to email me through eBay's mail system - it goes right to my inbox, nd I will check it a few times a day.
I will entertain best offers for a while, o don't wait. I can't afford to keep throwing $30.60 a week at eBay to keep this thing listed. Lowball offers will be refused without a response or counteroffer. Be reasonable. If it doesn't sell in 3 weeks, 'll drain the fuel tank and carb, il everything down and park it out back until another projectcomes my way. So, ou've got 3 weeks from 9/19/15 to make a decision. After that, ou won't see this truck again.
Delivery available on an open flatbed trailer anywhere in the Continental USA for $1.05 per mile as measured by Mapquest from my address to yours - must be paid in full before my wheels turn. I CAN LEAVE IMMEDIATELY THE FOLLOWING MORNING.NO MAJOR CITY DELIVERIES - you'll have to meet me in a suburb along a major highway in that case. I will NOT enter NYC, r even a 40 mile radius of it, o matter how much money you throw at me! Don't bother to ask - WON'T HAPPEN. If you live there, ou'll have to meet me in Connecticut. If this is a problem, ave us both the trouble and find another vehicle.
Everything mentioned here was explained to the best of my knowledge. I do NOTdeliberately deceive or defraud people - I pride myself in honesty andintegrity, ven if it costs me a sale. See my feedback and buy with confidence.
**Feedback will be left ONLY AFTER it is left for me.**
THANKS for looking & have a good one!
Other classic cars for sale