1949 chevy truck, bagged, patina, 47-55, hotrod, not a ratrod, c10, 49, chevy

Description for Chevrolet Other Pickups 1949

I'm relisting where we left off, my latest build "49Hardtimes". I'v put over 800 hrs in this frame off build in the course of about 22 months. This isn't some thrown together half build jalopy, ractically everything is new or rebuilt. As you'll see below I'll break down the categories, owever its going to be long winded and I still won't cover every little detail because there are too many to list. I have hundreds ofpictures documenting the build, lso a build thread on a very reputable site. So many times I see these trucks selling with very little information and zero videos. I'll cover all of that. I take pride in my work and want the truck to go to a good home. In the past two years I'v seen the market climb and stay strong. I can tell you from what I'v seen recently, his is by far one of the best trucks that will hit auction. I have documented most all of the AD trucks that sell on here and will gladly share the listings with you, o you can compare if you like. I'v put about700 miles on it so far, y the time the auction is going, should have around 800 miles. I'v recently drove it to Pittsburgh, rom Titusville 100 miles one way and got about 20mpg. Just drove to Erie, A and got about 20mpg as well. PA inspected as a daily driver. Keep checking details for additional vids and thoughts throughout the auction.BODY- I saved this truck from being scrapped, hich I love doing. However it did need extensive work. Almost every part on the metal needed something done to it. I built a whole new custom floor absolutely solid as can be. Has new inner and outer cowls and kick panels, ab corners I build from scratch, ack lower portion of cab is replaced. Everything has been seam sealed, oated with chassis saver and top coated with Herculiner. Doors have new inner and outter skins have been coated inside. They are painted inside (yes there is paint on this truck!) I installed bolt on bear claw latches with keyless entry. New door felts rubber you name it. All glass is new except vent window on driver side. (You prolly didn't notice that one door has a vent and pass door doesn't. The driver door is not original door to the truck. I personally like having a vent on driver side and its so subtle most won't notice. New door and window handles. Firewall has been shaved and painted for a cleaner look (big fan of done interiors and engine bays on these trucks, O many guys cut those corners). Inner fenders are painted and had metal work done. I made tons of patches for the rear fenders, ndercoated everything. Everything you see has been coated underneath, ven the hood. No rot anywhere. That is something alot of these trucks have, 'm not a fan of that. I like patina, ut not rot. The truck realistically wouldn't be a bad paint candidate (I'd never do that to it) but I'm saying the panels are good. The grille is the ruffest part on this truck.. Bed is solid, ade a new stake pocket on driver side. Oh speaking of bed, here is actually bed depth here, omething alot of bagged trucks don't have. The bed wood slides out so you have access to all the suspension and air ride. Over all the body is very solid and well prepped for many years to come. I have over 150 hrs in the cab alone. The dash was completely removed and reconstructed do to severe damage, 0hrs in that. So behind dash and up in every nook has been treated for the rust. (again, ost trucks here don't have that). There is no mud on this truck, ll metal and skimmed with duraglas on some areas. ENGINE/Exhuast- this isn't a junkyard find or used greasy engine outta some beater. Seeings LS swaps are so popular, nd I like them however.... This is still a touch of old school with the last of the sbc models before the LS. Its a full roller Vortec block with heads. Completely rebuilt, tayed at original bore. Full roller means, ven the timing chain is a roller, ockers, am, ifters. Has new King racing bearings (top of line stuff). New GM performance hotcam, ith 1.6 rockers total lift is .525 on intake and exhaust. Cam has been degreed and is 112 lobe sep. New timing chain, over, alancer, oly rings, il pump, uel pump with regulator, EI 65k volt distributor, new MSD wires, lugs. High rise aluminum intake. ARP bolts throughout. Heads have 7/16 studs with roller rockers, new springs, new valve seals. New finned oil pan. Static compression of 9.5 to 1. Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, lectric choke. New aluminum water pump, rackets, 20 amp alt with lifetime warranty. Very cool feature is the pulley system. Its a rare serpentine style that runs just like the v pulleys do. PWS is all new, ut is ran off vbelt. I can go on and on. Can even send you links to some very similar builds. I guesstimate around 400hp. I hate when guys say its "cammmed" and that's all they tell you. I built the engine so I know truly what is up. It pulls hard past 6k no problem Idles great, tarts right up.One and only negative thingI can say is the tiniest oil leak from rear.(has new rear main seal) I suspect its from the rear oil pan, nd or oil pan bolt has a plastic washer on it. I'm talking a tiny little leak. I'v installed and air fuel ratio gauge, omething I do on all my SBC's. I like knowing what theengine is up to, o its a greatgauge to have. I also run aVac gauge inside, gain great tool to have in knowing what the engine is doing. I rarely see guys on here with those two gauges that alone will help you really tunean engine. It has FULL stainless exhaust 2.5". That means headers, ll pipe flex pipe and mufflers are stainless. They aren't polished but they are stainless. The headers are 304 stainless and pipes are 409 stainless (409 does show surface rust to some degree). So that being said, 'll never build a truck again without stainless, ts worth the extra money and should last dang near forever.(almost all these trucks don't offer that).Sounds great, otobnoxiouslyloud either. I ran the exhaust out by the rear fenders. I like the location and didn't want them in any part of the body. Alot of trucks dump in the bed, ut the state of PA doesn't allow that. Truck stays cool about 170 all day, 90 in hot traffic. Has new lifetime warranty 3 core aluminum radiator, ll new hoses. As mentioned got 20mpg on a 100 mile trip. I'd say average would be 17mpg city and highway, ess if you hammer on it. SUSPENSION- Like a lot of these trucks, es I am using a late model GM frame. I don't need to get into a whole debate on any traditional enthusiasts out there. This isn't just plopped onto a crusty frame and drivetrain, r hacked together. Infact is a lot more work and not far cheaper to build them this way. Lots of time and money into the frame. As I'm a fan of original frame builds too, will say late model frames are way stronger and have great geometry. I've even went above and beyond and boxed the frame halfway back, ven added plates to the pearches where the lower link bars mount. The rear is bagged with the Ridetech kit, asn't my first choice but at the time I didn't have access to electric for a 220 welder. The kit is nice but expensive. Its bolt on but I also welded it on. (got 220 shortly after I got the kit)Up front I used speedway tubular upper control arms, like them ( just have to keep greased like balljoints etc). I used the stock lower arms but put poly bushings in them. The air ride system is top of the line. Its not some cheapo ebay kit. Running Airlift 2600lb bags up front, way bar with poly bushings, irestone sleeve bags in rear, alf inch flex line DOT rated, ccuair VU4 manifold (aka electric valves) biggest name in the biz. Accuair 5 gallon aluminum tank filled by two Viair 450 compressors. All controlled up front with the AVS 9 way electric controller. Running all PTC fittings most are ASCO, unning two SMC air filters. Has dual needle gauges up on the custom console I made that houses the controller, o easy view of the front and rear bag pressures. Has tank pressure gauge under dash by steering, asy to see but out of plane view. All gauges light up. I haven't hooked it up yet but you can also air up and down with the AVS REMOTEkey fob that is used for the doors. All that would need done is a relay tapped in, ery easy to do. Truck lays on running boards, ax height is about 6" up front 5" in back. I ride about 4" off ground. Truck handles awesome I must say, ery smooth and easy to drive. Everything has been stripped and coated with high gloss chassis saver (rust inhibitor) then top coated with an enamel paint. All new ball joints, ie rods you name it. Mostly all MOOG brand. Has belltech 2" drop spindles. Runs on 14" rims with new bias wide whites. 26" tall. Running a 4x4 blazer rear end with disc brakes 3.42 gears.

TRANS, UEL, RAKES- I'm a huge fan of 5 speeds. Here is your chance to geta real hotrod folks. Very fun to drive. I have had a lot of guys ask me for an auto and I can't help to think I'm just not into autos, speeds are too much fun. Trans is a NV3500 (most commonly referred to) out of full size trucks. I run the same trans in my 51' and have several lined up for future builds. It has a brand new stage 2 clutch from Phoenix friction. Wilwood master cylinder and pedal. Clutch is very easy on the foot. Only negative thing I can say right now is a slight bearing noise releasing if you don't feather the clutch sometimes, ery subtle and hardly worth mentioning,but I want to nit pick my own build and give the buyer zero surprises. (something most guys don't do on here). It has a brand new high HP driveshaft from southwest speed, oog ujoints. FUEL- brand new 20gal tank that I coated and top coated with herculiner, ustom made beefy tank straps, new sending unit works with fuel gauge, o guessing on gas here) all new lines. Ran aluminum lines so rusting out is never an issue. Running mechanical fuel pump with regulator, o expensive electric pump to leave you stranded here. You'll see fuel filler in stock location in pics, ut its just for looks. Fuel filler is in rear driver side behind fender. You can hardly notice it. Sure beats filling in the bed IMO. BRAKES- All new components here, o donor parts used. Stainless hoses up front and rear. Copper nickel line so rusting is never an issue. Up front has drilled and slotted Powerstop rotors, o cheap ebay ones. CPP big bore calipers, new MC and booster, ear has stock discs with ceramic pads. Braking is very good. Slight squeak on pass front I'm chasing still, hould have that fixed. But again I'm really digging all disc brakes. The truck really just drives and stops awesome.

INTERIOR/Wiring- really digging the interior, arely to do you see these patina trucks with nice interiors. They add lots of time and money let me tell you. Custom vinyl bench seat. I only run late model benches so you can fold them forward. Behind seat is battery and wiring for air ride and some relays. Kill switch is ran under seat. I always run them for safety and security. Very easy to reach from driver seat. 3 point DOT rated seat belts, afer the better. I'll never run lap belts. I brought same material from seat onto the door panels. also the headliner and sunvisors (visorsnot inpics I know). As you can see everything is painted. Black carpet, sed sound/heat barrier in entire cab. Not very noisy or hot. Dash is a long story I touched slightly on. Speaker assembly originally is not on a hinge, ut I made it do so. Originally wanted radio behind it, xed that because I like being able to reach through that area to work under dash on wiring. You'll see what I mean. My FAVORITE part of the interior are the custom electric speedometer and tach. They appear to look stock but aren't. So unlike most these trucks, ou have a speedo and tach, ruly unique and time consuming to do. One of the only trucks with this custom combo. Speedo also has a trip meter, ove it. Rest of gauges are down under dash in a row on a custom console I made. You can barely see it unless your actually the driver. So you have temp, il, ac, olts and fuel. all light up and work. New glove box and lock, ice painted shifter, new rear view mirror, orn button located on dash ( not in pictures, wapped out since) high beam indicator on dash, nother toggle switch on dash will run the mood lights for interior which are under dash. I also have a USB and cig port under dash. Original cig lighter works too. new ignition switch. new gas pedal, edals are very easy to work, reat leg room (I'm 6' and have no problems getting in or out) I have the wheel set at a perfect height. I used a vintage turn signal which I think looks cool. All new glass and rubber. Electric wipers, ust installed new heater, don't care for AC or a radio to be honest. I can install radio if owner desires. We can discuss that if its and issue. WIRING- let me just say wiring is no joke. I ran a 21 circuit Rebel wire harness made in USA, ocated on driver side under dash. I spend tons of hours wiring. NO reused stuff here. I loomed almost every wire, abeled them all. I can talk a lot about all the wiring that went down but I'll spare you. doors are wired with actuators for the popping the claws. Air ride system took quite a bit of wiring. I ran a lot of weather pack connectors on the outside for easy and safe access to headlights etc. ALL grounds run to battery.All new battery wires. Dome light works, ll interior lights work, ll exterior lights work. I ran a few power and ground hubs for easy access for maintenance or future additions. I also have a toggle switch to turn compressors off and on, ven though they have a pressure switch wired to auto shut off. I ran a kill switch inside cab for compressors as well, o you can easily kill power to them to work on anything pertaining to the compressors. Prolly forgetting a lot here but there are a ton of hours in the interior. Just about anything you can think of is new.

OVERVIEW- hard to explain 800 plus hours and almost two years in just a few paragraphs. Hopefully the vids will help you out, lso I can email you the build thread which is about 30 pages long. I have documented hours and receipts and they both went over my projected budget. Lot of time and money goes into these. Why mine differs from most on here.... just very thought out, ery pleasing contrast, op name parts, ustom gauges, speed, ons of power, ecent fuel economy, tainless exhaust and coated body panels are two prime examples of things most guys don't offer here, omplete rebuilt engine, ainted engine bays and interiors. Heck I see painted trucks with no coatings or paint under fenders, see huge number builds that have skimpy frame coatings, ven some rust, oggles my mind. I see a lot of ratty wiring, rapy aesthetics, ero info on what your buying. Me I'm honest and prideful, o I don't want you buying this truck if you feel like its too much or just something your not comfy buying. Here is your chance to get a timeless hotrod for a way less shop rate than a big name shop, nd no wait! This truck is reliable and fun to drive. I would really like to buyer to come see the truck in person, rive it, et a feel for it and show them all the cool features. Please bid only if you serious, y time is so very important to me. This truck already took longer than I planned. I'm not telling anyone the reserve. I value a decent static drop frame off build anywhere from 15-20k, agged frame off builds 25-40 with patina, aint 30-60k. obviously these are general numbers that can vary drastically. If you think you can build this truck for less than I'm asking, you prolly can. But it will take you years to do this well, ake you way more money than you think. Takes years to obtain the tools, nowledge and space to do these. I've only focused on these trucks for five years straight. I have 7 AD trucks alone and some other 50's cars. My build list is long, he sale of this truck will help fund my next one. Thanks and please email with any questions. info@directioneast.com. P.S buyer will get some of my shop tees and coffee! We can arrange for shipment pick up in Titusville, A or Pittsburgh. I'm still driving the truck, orking on little things so I'd like the buyer to work with me on fine tuning any little touches before we ship it or pick it up. You can check out some of my other builds etc. www.coffeeandcustoms.com

Here are some videos, 'm hoping to film an interior video edit as well. So keep checking back for UPDATES.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKa0VAzS-O4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59Z62cPvFrE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34IWBCXBPkk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXXflWbSfC8