1990 K5 Blazer 1 ton Crawler, Lifted Dana 60, 14 bolt, Swamper Iroks

Description for Chevrolet Blazer 1990

1990 K5 Blazer "Silverado Package" 350 TBI, auto. 1 ton axle upgrades and many other modifications.

I purchased this truck stock from the previous owner and it had been well maintained. The K5 was my dream 4x4 growing up and it's been a fun project but the truth I don't have time or room for it. I tinker with it when I have free time but I realize more and more that it's just going to go to waste in my driveway so I am putting it up for sale.

Truck is in good condition for its age, it's got the typical small scratches here and there but you'd be hard pressed to find an original one in this good of shape. The paint is typical for a truck of this age. The roof and hood were repainted years ago but the sides of the truck, especially the red portion are faded and showing their age. The truck was intended to be a trail/camping vehicle so I wasn't concerned about the faded paint. The doors have the typical square body sag but they open and close easily. The body is straight and rust free so it is a good candidate for a fresh paint job if the new owner chooses. This is a southern truck; no salt damage, no frame rot and it has never been in a flood.

Inside the truck is stock down to the AC Delco cassette deck in the dash. The truck is typical for this age. The seats are all in great shape, grey buckets. The dash was covered most of its life with a carpeted dash cover and shows some UV deterioration and cracking. The carpet has some stains and the headliner over the driver/passenger is sagging. The power windows, rear tailgate window, and power locks work. The switches on the driver's door are worn but still work, the truck will come with new switches from LMC truck. Again, like the exterior, the truck could use some freshening but works fine for a trail/camping rig. If you choose, a new headliner, carpet kit and dash cover from LMC or another company would make this interior look new.

Engine and trans are stock TBI 350 and 700R4 with ~150k miles. They get the job done for what I need. The only "modification" to the engine is a Flowkooler brand high flow water pump I put in to make sure it stayed cool while crawling trails. Other than that, I have not messed with anything other than items for maintenance and repair. (Plugs, wires, alternator, belt, hoses etc.) The engine has good compression, measured 180 psi on all cylinders. After the truck sat for a long time for the axle and suspension swap I pulled the injectors from the TBI and had them professionally cleaned and tested. 700R4 is all original and shifts fine. It has an external cooler behind the grill. It has had regular fluid and filter service.

Vehicle Modifications

I've modified the suspension and drivetrain to make the truck ready for rock crawling. It has top of the line parts, mostly from Offroad Design http://offroaddesign.com/ for the suspension, steering, etc. I have over $10K just in parts.

Axles are a Dana 60 and 14 bolt axles with 4.56 gears, rear locker. I pulled the axles from a 1983 SRW 1 ton, both axles were stripped down completely and been gone through with new bearings, brakes, calipers and seals. The front Dana 60 has new King pins and bushing and has "Dana 70" 35 spline outers with WARN 35 spline hubs and Spicer 5-806X solid ujoints. Rear 14 bolt has been converted to disk brakes. I've put $3,000+ in the axle rebuild.

High Angle Driveline custom shafts front and rear. The front shaft is a long travel with the 1410 joint at the axle. It was ordered with a 12" slip. ~3.5" compression, ~8" droop. It has a 1410 u-joint (capable of operating at a higher angle) to make sure that even at full droop it won't bind. The rear is a 1350 CV and 1350 at the axle. I ordered it with enough slip to allow you to move the axle back 1" if you choose to later. The transfer case is the original NP241 with a JB conversion SYE kit, it has been clocked up for better clearance.

The truck sits on approximately 6"-7" of lift, Front consists of BDS springs (very soft) and the rear is a 4" Offroad Design Shackle Flip with 3" blocks. The front axle was moved forward an inch so the suspension can travel more without hitting the firewall. The rear axle spring perches have extra holes to offset it back 1" to extend the wheelbase. Extended steel braided brake lines were also installed.

Steering consists of ORD HD crossover with high steer ($800) and a new 2wd steering box http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60CrossoverAndHighSteer.htm The truck also has an ORD steering box brace on the frame.

The truck sits on 36" x 13.50 Bias Ply Iroks mounted on Procomp 16 x 10" wheels. I have a 36" TSL on a matching Procomp wheel for a spare. These are still like new. 36" tires fit without having to trim the fenders.

The front has a custom front "hybrid" style winch bumper that is Rhino Lined.

The truck will be sold with a transfer case mounted parking brake from High Angle Driveline. This has not been installed and requires the exhaust to be modified. The stock exhaust runs too close to the transfer case so it will need to be piped closer to the frame to make room for the disk.

The "bad”

The truck will not start currently, must be towed or trailered. The truck has been sitting and has either a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay. When you turn the truck ON you can't hear the pump humming and the gas gauge pegs to full which is a sign that it is not connected or not getting power.

The rear shocks are not installed. I removed the mounts from the axle in order to weld on new mounts and crossmember to increase travel but have not had time to complete this mod. The truck will come with new mounts for the axle as well as new Procomp ES3000 shocks with ~13" travel. The original mounts on the frame are still in place if the new owner chooses to go back with a stock style shock setup.

The windshield is cracked on the top of the passenger side. It is not in the driver's line of sight but depending on where you register the vehicle it may not pass inspection.

The body and frame are rust free but the battery tray has the typical rust due to corrosion and the inner fender liner under the battery tray has an area of rust. Both of these items can be easily swapped or wire wheeled and painted.

Full disclosure

I am selling this truck as-is and I have done my best to disclose everything about it condition. This has been a great truck. When I first purchased it, I took it on several long road trips and never had an issue. While doing the suspension and axle swap the truck sat for over a year. Once I completed the work I put a battery in it and it fired up immediately. I then upgrade the shafts and installed the SYE kit and drove the truck around locally to shake out any issues but I have never had a chance to fully test it offroad to its full capabilities. The truck has sat for months at a time due to my work schedule but has always cranked right up and run well. Eventually the battery wouldn't hold a charge. I got tired of jump starting it and it has been parked in my driveway since last summer, I was hoping to be able to do more modifications (rear shocks and parking brake) over the winter but got side tracked with other projects. I recently decided my work and family schedule will not allow me the time needed to enjoy this vehicle so I decided to sell it, I installed a new battery and found that it will not start (see comments above about fuel pump). I am confident that once this fuel issue is fixed the truck will start right up. Given the truck is not running I have set the price very low. As you can see the parts alone are worth more than the buy it now price. You will find stock K5s priced higher than this. Trucks modified like this one easily sell for $10K+.

I will not arrange shipment, buyer must pick-up truck in Luling, LA which is just outside of New Orleans.

Deposit of US $500.00 within 48 hours of auction close

Immediate deposit is required for Buy It Now

On Nov-27-17 at 07:23:12 PST, seller added the following information:

Additional Notes:

I have been flooded with questions and comments regarding this truck. I want to clarify some items.

To be clear, this is an UNFINISHED PROJECT vehicle. The fuel pump is not turning on and I do not know why. It could be the fuel pump, it could be the module, it could be wiring. I have not diagnosed the issue. Getting the fuel system working will get the truck running. This does not mean it will be a perfect running and driving vehicle. This is a project that has been through various stages of progress as I've built it up. I have driven it on the road around my town but I have not put hundreds and hundreds of miles on this setup. Don't expect to put in a fuel pump and drive to Moab to do rock crawling. Also, if you have no need for 1 ton axles and you are just looking for a K5 as a weekend toy to drive around and camp in this is NOT the vehicle for you. This is a rig built to be abused offroad. If you want something to ride around in and occasionally put in 4wd then do yourself a favor and just buy a stock K5 and put an off the shelf lift on it. The truck has been sitting for a year and I cannot guarantee you won't have a leak somewhere from a dried out seal or have some other issue that comes from a vehicle sitting undriven. This is being sold AS-IS.

Questions I have gotten, I have lumped similar ones together.

Why not put a fuel pump in it and sell it? - Can I put a fuel pump in it in your driveway - Can I pay you an extra $500 to have the fuel pump fixed so I can drive it home.

I have not put a fuel pump in it due to lack of time. My work schedule has changed and I have too many other projects going on. I will not change the fuel pump prior to sale nor do I want anyone changing a fuel pump in my driveway. Again, the fuel pump may not be the issue, you'd be best to take it to YOUR shop and diagnose the issue and replace the bad part.

How is the truck on the highway? Would this be good for a cross country expedition?

First off you do not need a 1 ton truck for a cross country "expedition”. The truck is tall, has no sway bars, soft suspension and is on bias ply tires. I have not had it up to highway speed very much, it is not built for that. It will certainly do highway speed but you may have vibrations at certain speeds and it will probably wonder from side to side with the bias ply tires. I drove it when it was run stock driveshafts and it had vibrations. To cure this, I upgraded to an SYE and High Angle driveline shafts. This cured the vibrations but that's not to say it will be smooth at highway speed. Also, the tires are balanced but again at certain speeds they may have vibrations.

Would you sell just the axles? Why not part it off, you'd get more money? If I win could I pull the drivetrain and you keep the rest, I only need a drivetrain for my project (<-this was an actual questions I've gotten)

I realize I could probably make more money parting off all the aftermarket parts but I have no time to disassemble this thing plus I do not want a stripped truck frame and body in my driveway. You are welcome to buy it and pull all the heavy duty parts off and put them on your project and part off the rest. And NO, you cannot disassemble it in my driveway and take just the parts you want.

How is the brake system?

All the brake components on the axles were replaced when the axles were rebuilt. The master cylinder and booster are original and I have not added any sort of proportioning valve. The truck has NO parking brake. As I mentioned it will come with a transfer case mounted driveline e-brake kit.

What exhaust does it have?

To my knowledge its factory 1990 exhaust. Its rusty and the rubber hangers are worn. It needs to be replaced to make clearance for the parking brake kit, the tail pipe needs to run closer to the frame.

What brand bumper is it?

The bumper was built by a guy is Mississippi who built a few out of his garage. Its stout but his welds weren't pretty so he rhino-lined them to make them look nice. There is a spot on one corner where its peeling up and it looks like he did a poor job of prepping it so the liner did not stick well and it has let moisture in. The area is rusty but it appears to be just cosmetic. You could wire wheel it and touch it up with bedliner from the part store or blast the whole bumper and recoat it. The center is thick plate material for the winch mount and the outer part is just pipe.

Will you take trades? How much will you take to end the auction? I will bring you $X,XXX today cash.

I do not want trades and I will not end the auction. If you want to give me a certain amount for the truck then please bid that amount.

Can you load it on my trailer?

No, I have no way to get it onto your trailer. You would be best to hire a company that specializes in moving vehicles to pick it up and drop it off at your place.

Can you check for rust here XXXXX?

I have gone over the truck and besides the original spot mentioned under the battery I have found rust in the passenger rocker. I was looking over the truck really good this weekend and noticed the paint bubbled and started scrapping at it and uncovered rust holes. There are two soft spots on this rocker that would need to be cut out and weld repaired. (See photo I added) The rest of the rocker feels solid. The drivers side feels fine. I see no other rust on the floorpan. I looked from the underside and its very clean and I pulled the carpet back as far as I could from under the dash and its solid. The other area where there is rust is the seat brackets. Its common on these square bodies. The seat brackets have very little paint and the carpet holds moisture so these start getting rusty. It's not noticeable on most trucks but because this truck is so tall its right in your face when you open the doors. The seat brackets feel solid, they just look like crap where they meet the floor. My advice, pull the seats, wire wheel the brackets, paint them with a fresh coat of grey, put down new carpet from LMC and be done with it.

On Nov-27-17 at 07:34:21 PST, seller added the following information:

Does the AC work?I thought I put this in the original description but I guess I forgot. No, the A/C does not work. The compressor is locked up on it and won't turn so I've disconnected the plug for the compressor clutch. The entire AC system is untouched so you can have a new compressor put in and upgrade it to the new Freon.