1930 FORD 5 WINDOW COUPE STREET ROD PROJECT NOT YOUR NORMAL HOT ROD

Description for Ford Model A 1930

Please read and ask all questions as I am going to provide as much as I can without making this a very long description. I started this car from a stock 1930 Coupe, I did not buy this from someone who started to build this, I did it all and I spent the money that is in it which is way way more than the starting bid and it will be a no reserve auction as opening bid is what it is going to take to buy it as is.
The body is an all steel Coupe body (WITH TITLE). The roof is chopped 3" by a professional who has been doing chops longer than most have been alive. The widow frames, doors, windshield frame and trim all have been done and the chop needs nothing else. The body was dustless blasted inside and out (no hidden filler or rust, what you see is what is there. I have all Brookville patch panels, firewall, rear sub frame rails and rear cross member, sub rail extensions and floor brace set, rear inner trunk panel and brace with trunk latch, wheel well patches, rear below deck lid panel. Should be everything to make the body solid. I don't believe the lower cowl panels need replaced (pin holes). The drivers side of the cowl had a mirror bolted to it (not bullet holes). Doors are solid! I have the roof wood and all the NEW body mount blocks (one rear is missing from picture but I have it). I have new in the box Coupe seat springs (upper and lower) but that is all I have for the seat not other parts.
The frame is a NEW Brookville with 2" rear kick up and is painted base coat clear coat black. It is their full fender frame but I was going to run no fenders but wanted the option for later. All that means is there are some extra bungs in the frame.
The front end is a NEW TCI Show polished stainless and chrome 4" drop with show chromed Super Bell I beam axle and show polished stainless 4 bar with show polished stainless steering components. The brakes are Wilwood Show polished Forged Dynalite disc brakes. A Flaming River steering gear box with chrome top and show polished stainless pitman arm connects all the steering together (I do not have the arm installed to the front steering, it is still new in the package. Everything is ALL NEW, nothing is used!
The rear end is a NEW MOSER 9 inch with MOSER 30 spline race axle. The center section housing is a factory Ford equipped with all new Johns Engineering posi unit and 3.50 gears. Rear brakes are Wilwood show polished Forged Dynalite disc brakes with E brake. The rear end is tied to the frame with TCI show polished stainless 4 bar and pan hard bar and TCI chrome coil overs.
The frame has a new master cylinder installed but none of the brakes are plumbed. I have the brake peddle and Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and reducers for 4 wheel disc brakes but DO NOT have the hard line kit.
The engine is a 383 SBC stroker with forged pistons, polished rods, Lunati Bracket Master II hydraulic camshaft, DART iron heads with 72CC chambers, double roller timing chain and Melling oil pump. Long block has been broke in and ran and YES it is a pump gas engine with a wicked sound and plenty of power for a street rod. All new Edlebrock Endura Shine dual quad set up with Thunder series Endura shine carbs and chrome air cleaner. I have all the new linkage for this set up (intake is just sitting on the engine) NEW MSD Pro Billet distributor with vacuum advance. NEW chrome short water pump, NEW Aluminum pulleys, NEW mini high out put chrome alternator with Billet Specialties show polished brackets. New Chrome oil pan for stroker engines. NEW chrome mini starter, NEW NOS Heartbeat of America tall polished aluminum valve covers. NEW Speedway coated headers and side mufflers (no baffles). I have all the bolts, gaskets for the headers, I have all the bolts, gaskets for the intake. Everything bolted or bolts to the engine is NEW.
Transmission is a rebuilt TH350 nothing crazy, just wanted a good shift (not a neck breaker with every shift) and has a new 3000 stall converter (realistically should stall out much lower since it is a real light car)
Wheels are NEW Weld Racing Alumastar 2.0's. Fronts are 15x3.50 and rears are 15x10 with 3" back spacing. As you can see, the wheels are show polished in the back side as well as the front. The tries are Hoosier Prostreet radial tires, fronts are 26x7.5x15 and the rears are 31x12.50x15.
What you see in the pictures is what I have, maybe some small things that didn't get shown but nothing large was missed. Look the pictures over and ask all questions as I know I probably missed some info as there is so much. I have put a lot into this car as I wanted to have everything high (no china junk) end and USA made. Yes you will still need to buy somethings for the build but if you keep going on the path I started, it should be a really AWESOME car when completed.
Keep this in mind if you are going to have a hauler pick it up. There is a lot of loose parts. Most can be bolted to the car (engine wise) for travel or I can box them up and seal the engine the best I can. I can also box up and tape shut and pack the inside of the car. It can be done is you trust the hauler to not have sticky fingers.
Deposit is due at the end of auction and the rest by cashiers check that will need to clear before I release the car. Cash in person is always accepted. The car can be stored if you need time to come get it or have it picked up but it MUST BE PAID IN FULL with in 7 days. I have the title in my name in my safe and it is clean and clear and needs nothing to be released to the new owner.
This is a project car but it has a heck of a start and I really would like to see it finished.
Seat that is in the car is just a old bus bench seat with a blanket over it and it will be removed from the car.