1962 Ford Falcon Sport Futura Hotrod

Description for Ford Falcon 1962

OVERVIEW
This 1962 Ford Falcon Sport Futura is a one-of-a-kind car. I went completely of the dial building this street legal drag show quality car. It has not been run in the past 15 years. At that time I dismantled the car to be re-painted (Viper red). Once the painting was completed I never put the car back together. Prior to being painted it was a driver. This car is not for the weekend hobbyist, it is for someone who knows how to build hotrods. It needs to be re-assembled and the motor re-started (having sat for 15 years). I have upwards of $40K invested.
No doubt some pieces have gone missing, but everything should be there right down to the bolts and screws. The doors and front fenders must be properly aligned as they were removed for painting. The carpets and seatbelts have to be replaced. The bumpers are there, but should be replaced. There is considerable pine tree pitch on the trunk and roof that will have to be removed. As well, there is masking tape on various panels (to prevent paint scratches) that will have to be removed. I can’t begin to count the hours I’ve put into this car. It was so much fun to build & drive and it comes with huge bragging rights. According to Crites, there is enough room in the engine bay for a 427. I have many more pictures, but ebay limits me to only 24.
HIGHLIGHTS
Powertrain• 351C Cleveland small block producing around 500 HP• Custom built headers• Performance built C6• Narrowed 9” with 31 spline Strange axles• Detroit Locker, Richmond 3.89 gears, Cosworth springs• Custom drive shaft with pinion yoke disk e-brakeSuspension• 4 wheel disk brakes & line lock• Art Morrison coil-overs & ladder bars• Custom fabricated front coil-overs and adjustable control-armsOther• Fiberglass T-Bold hood• Crites shock-tower relocation kit• Much of the wiring has been replaced
BODY
The Falcon was painted Viper red at Maine Auto Cosmetics. They stripped the old paint, repaired rust damage, straightened the body lines, and then used a Spies Hecker base/clear coat system. The entire car was dissembled. All of the glass, doors, fenders, and trim were removed. The rust around the rear wheel wells was repaired with patch panels from a donor car. All of the trim (stainless, anodized aluminum, chrome has been either replaced with new or re-plated. The ugly chrome falcons on the sides of the front fenders have been re-plated. All of the other chrome pieces have been replaced with new (door handles, mirrors, emblems, etc.). The stainless pieces have been polished with jewelers rouge. I removed the anodized finish from the headlight doors and taillight buckets, polished them, and then sprayed with clear coat. The factory antenna has been replaced with a generic aftermarket power unit. This really cleans up the lines of the car. I have the stainless trim waiting to be installed.
FRAME
The original chassis was removed from back seat to the rear of the car, from outer fender to outer fender. A 2x3 box tube frame was run from the front frame rails to the rear of the car. The opening was then closed in with Summit Racing steel wheel tubs and sheet metal. Since I wanted to keep the back seat, I designed the frame cross-member to pass under the driveshaft. The center section is removable so that the driveshaft can be dropped. The new frame is also tied into the rocker boxes. The car is about as stiff as possible without adding a cage. I feel a cage does not look good in a street car and detracts from the interior so I didn't go that route. The coil-over front suspension is what’s used on oval track cars. It was custom build by Flying 5 Motorsports.
PAINT
The new paint color is Spies Hecker Viper red base/clear. The rocker box extension and rear wheel well openings had considerable rust damage. Patch panels were cut from a donor car. Both front fenders had rust damage on the brows above the headlights. Considerable time was spent smoothing out all the 44 years of dings, bump, and ripples. The body lines are once again straight. Lots of etching, primers, and glaze. The finish is like a mirror! Thanks to countless hours of love, attention, water sanding, and buffing. But after 15 years it now needs attention. There are a few spots where blisters have formed under the paint. I’ve included pictures of the worst spots.
MOTOR
The motor is a 351 Cleveland that is internally balanced (very important detail). It was assembled and dyno'd by Bob Bailey at Hi-Torque. While most of what they build are Chevy motors, Bob use to build and race Clevelands back in the 70's.The heads flowed 311 @ .600. Not bad for a set of factory iron heads. You won't see many small block street cars with that kind of flow. On the dyno the motor pulled 475 HP @ 6,600 RPM, and 430 TQ @ 5,100 RPM during break-in. The motor was still building HP when we stopped the pulls at 6,600 RPM. It was picking up about 6 HP for each 100 RPM at the point we shut it down. The motor is built to turn 8K RPM so it's anyone guess what the peak HP really is. I'm running a very mild cam so it would probably run out around 7K RPM. The dyno showed the motor being seriously over-carbureted. I switched to a Barry Grant 750 Mighty Demon and a 2" open spacer. I believe the motor now easily puts out 500+ HP.
Block• Bored .020• Four Bolt Mains• Align Bored• Oil Galley Restrictor Plugs• External Oil Line Heads• Closed Chamber• Port Stuffers & Epoxy• Manley Severe Duty Valves• Titanium Retainers & Keepers• Lunati three Piece Springs• Big-Block Chevy Screw-In Studs• Guide Plates• Crower Enduro 1.73 Roller Rockers Intake & Carb.• Parker Racing Funnelweb• Barry Grant 750 Mighty Demon• 2" Open Aluminum Spacer
Rotating Assembly• Internally Balanced Crankshaft• Winston Cup Balancer• Australian Long Rods• Floating Wrist Pins• TRW Forged Pistons (11:1)• Zero Gap Rings• Hamburger Double Roller Chain• Windage Try & Crank Scraper• Moroso 9 Qt. Oil Pan• Comp Cams Custom Grind Extreme Energy Flat-Tappet• Lift: I - .554 E - .569• Duration: I - 230 E - 236• Lobe Separation: 110• 3/8 Hardened Push Rods
Fuel Delivery• Holley Fuel Pump• Holley Regulator• Barry Grant braided lines to carb• 3/8" Fuel lines Headers & Exhaust• Tubular Automotive Custom Fabricated Headers• Jet Coated• 1 7/8" Primaries• 3.5" Collectors• Flowmaster 40 Series Mufflers• 2 1/2" Exhaust• Stainless Tips Exit Under Rear Bumper
Cooling• Griffin 26" Aluminum Radiator• Ford Motorsport Aluminum Water pump• 2 - 10" Perma-Cool Electric Fans Ignition• Ford Motorsport Ignition Box• 8,000 RPM Rev Limiter• MSD Billet Distributor• Nelson Specialties Coil• GM Single Wire Alternator
INTERIOR
Most of the interior has been replaced. What hasn't been has been replaced has been redone in one way or another. One of the nice features of these old Falcons is that there isn't any plastic in the interior. It is all metal. New paint and chrome really brings it to life. The seats are about my favorite part of the car. They are absolutely beautiful! Leo's Custom Auto Upholstery did the work. He replaced all of the foam and fabricated the upholstery. The nicest touch is that all of the pleated sections are done in tweed. This give it a very 50's look. The door panels, quarter panels, and pick panels have all been replaced. The quality of these aftermarket panels is excellent and looks just like the original. The kick panels are more durable than the factory parts and have mounts for the speakers. I had the trim that encases the doors, rear side windows, and A-pillars chrome plated. This adds a striking and unique touch. There is subtle black mold/mildew on the seat tweed. This needs to be properly cleaned. You can see it in the pictures if you look closely.