1972 E Type jaguar V12 manual

Description for Jaguar E-Type 1972

• 1972 E Type Jaguar V12 manual
• Purchased in early 2013
• Completely restored engine
• Bodyprofessionally stripped and painted original color
• 85,000original miles on body
• D-Type racing wheels
• New interior kit purchased
• Chrome re-done
• New brakes
• New clutch
• New complete seal kit
• Many new parts
• Call for info 970-398-9251 Brendan

The Details
1972 E Type V12,purchased in early 2013 after I left the Army. When I picked up the car I was told by the PO that the 1stcylinder on the right bank of six had made contact with a valve and either damaged the valve and or cylinder. As it turns out, he motor needed everything. I took the motor to a Jaguar guru who lives and works near Golden, olorado and this is the news Ireceived back:
"Crank pins (rod journals) are right on the money. The journal surfaces look good and mike good. I'll get into the mains a little later today.Rod bearings are corroded. They don't look like they've been run but the bearing white metal surfaces are completely dotted with acid corrosion marks. They need replacement. The main bearings will get replacement as well.I pulled four piston/rod assemblies. The cylinders have a ridge but we are going to work with this as I'm sure there isn't budget headroom for replacements. The piston ring lands are OK. Top lands are a little loose at 0.005" but serviceable. The second scraper is good at 0.0035. Bottom line here is if the remainder of the pistons are like these examples, istons are good to go. The ring end gaps are way out of spec and the sealing surfaces are not good, o you get a new set of rings.
The hard part. The cylinder sleeves. Here's my plan. There is a ridge at the top of all of the cylinders. If I put new rings in the engine they will strike the ridge and the new top rings will break or be damaged. Two of the cylinders are leaking coolant to the crankcase now so at least two have to come out of the block. This is a dirty messy job but it does allow me to get the block clean enough to reassemble and get some assurance that none of the liners will leak into the crankcase. As a bonus here, can also get all of the scale and sludge out of the cooling areas around the cylinders so cooling will not be an issue. Removal of the ridges requires the use of a ridge reamer which puts considerable torque on the sleeves and will loosen them. So they will need to come out for re-sealing. So, pull all of the studs, ull the crank and timing gear, lywheel and clutch and drop the crank out. Ridge ream the cylinders. Hone the cylinders to a break-in pattern for the new rings. Pull the cylinder sleeves from the block, ressure wash the block (it will look bad as the last person to work on the engine simply painted the block inside and out so it looks nice but isn't really clean) to remove the swarf from ridge reaming, oning and scale removal from the water jacket area. The sleeves now get a wire brush job on the OD, he sleeve IDs are now wire brushed to white metal and the engine is now ready for reassembly after cleaning up all of the internal parts.
With all of the internal parts cleaned up and ready for reassembly, he liners go back in with sealer on the ODs, he crank, il pump, iming gear equipment, ew rear main seal, ew main bearings, ew rod bearings, reshly re-ringed clean pistons, et installed and torqued to spec. The heads need to go on within 72 hours of the assembly process to insure a good seal at the bottom of the liners. If this can't happen, will install liner hold down plates so they can't move while the heads get prepared for final assembly. I use a purpose designed assembly lube on all rotating components. The cylinders get no lubricant other than 5-15 cheapo motor oil until the engine is ready to start and get under load to seat the rings."
Nutshell: I had engine completely rebuilt.
I stripped the car down to bare metal, nd the hotrod painter here in Estes Park cut out the rust, hich was very little. Some behind the passenger door and a little behind the rocker on passenger side. The car was blocked and sanded three times, wo coats of base and two coats clear. Paint is original Light Blue by Spies Hecker.
I had the front floors cut out as well as the bulkheads on both sides and replaced, roduced by Martin Robey. Also had the section in the boot under the fuel tank replaced, s it turns out nobody makes these sections for the E type anymore, o the shop that did all the metal work hand fabricated one. All jack points are exceptionally strong.
I also sourced a set of Six NOS Italian Weber's IDF 40, nd all adapters for the manifold, arbs have never been used. They look incredible, inkage will have to be sourced by next owner.
The wires that came on the car were less the desirable. I sold them and bought a set of four 15x6 D-Type racing wheels, plined. Sourced from England. They have a new set of Michelin tires never on the road.
I have a brand new interior kit from SNG Barratt, ncludes everything needed for the interior, xcept the seats which are in beautiful condition. The leather is very nice and supple, xcept the corner of the rear seat which my Wife's door chewed. Yes, e is still alive.
I have a new seal kit that covers every bit of rubber gasket and seals for the series III, urchased through Terry's Jaguar.
All the chrome has been redone, ront bumpers, hree rear, post chrome, umperette"s, oor trim below window, ave all trim from the interior trim (not done) and chrome from gutter rails, ills, oors etc.
I have all glass, oor glass needs replacing. Sand blaster got a little crazy. They are around $80 a piece from SNG. Rear glass is original heated and original to car.
I did change the bonnet to a series I with covered headlamps. Looks great, he conversion came from Chuck at Monocoque Metal Works. Chuck does great fabrication! If you are a purist you can easily convert back to a Series III. My goal was to rally this car with other Vets throughout the US.
Structurally the Jag is in great shape, here is a massive amount of extras including the old interior that comes with the car. The hard part of the project is finished.
I am not selling anything separate from this sale.If you have questions, have answers. Feel free to call 970-398-9251 Brendan. I am not interested in trades, r help in selling

On Jan-28-16 at 12:59:50 PST, eller added the following information:

I have had dozens ofphone calls concerning the E type. I will bullet point thequestions and give an answer after.

• How much is your reserve? I am not willing at thisjuncture to reveal the amount, hich lends itself to the next question
• What is thetotal amount that you have into the car? I have more into the car then the reserve is set at
• Are Series III worth a lot of money? As I have said to a few callers today, he series III is heading north in price, he convertible has always been up there, he 2+2 Coupe manual transmission is gaining ground fast, nd not far behind is the 2+2 coupe auto. There is noguarantee on any car maintaining a value. This is a car that needs to be driven, otputaway for financial gains.
• Can Ifinish the car? I don't know what level anyonesskill set is, owever, he big stuff that normally needs pros is done. Putting in aninterior and seals is no simple task, ome specialty tools are needed. If you can follow a directions, arbor freight has lessexpensive tools that are for interior installs. It is a little daunting but taking your time willyield great results.
• Any trades? I have had a few callers offer trades and at this time I would like to sell the Jag for cash.

This is a big purchase, oplease askquestions!Brendan