1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0L 6Cyl 5-Spd CLEAN TITLE Southern MULTIPLE SOFTOPS 232K

Description for Jeep Wrangler 1992

Used Vehicle Sale
1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ5-Speed Manual / 6-Cylinder / 4.0 Liter Engine
CLEAN TITLE (2nd Owner)~231,500 Miles
**Has Fender/Hood/Body Panel Damage**
Excellent/Reliable Driving Vehicle(Daily driver for nearly 20 years)
High-End Original EquipmentManufacturer (OEM) "Islander" Body Package(Chrome Grille, Bumper, Bumperettes;5-Spoke OEM Aluminum Alloy Rims;OEM Side-Step Fender Running Boards;larger 20-gallon fuel tank)
Many New Replacement Parts +Multiple Bestop Soft Tops!


DETAILS: This auction lot is for: 1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Used)
Condition: Offered for your consideration is a "toy" that I'd honestly hoped I wouldn't have to part with, my 1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ. I'm second-owner on the vehicle, purchased it from a friend (the original owner) back in 2000 (she bought it new/locally). It's mainly been a daily driver (neither of us took it off-road very much, but the 4WD still works excellent, having the occasional fun test just to make sure all remains in working condition). This wasn't a fully-designated Islander when sold, but had nearly the full Islander package (but happily not the cheesy side graphics). It features the Islander's full running-board/side steps, chrome grille, aluminum alloy 5-spoke premium wheels, larger 20-gallon fuel tank, full carpeting, center console with cup holders, black/grey interior with high-back seats, and Wrangler decals.
I haven't driven it very much in the past year or so, but sadly it was involved in a minor accident about a month back (while avoiding a worse accident), with front-left fender/hood/body panel damage resulting. Since I don't drive it much any more, I've decided now is the time to let it go, and let the new owner decide what'll be best going forward. I've stayed on top of regular maintenance over the past ~20 years, never missing a regularly scheduled oil change, as well replacing numerous parts to keep it running smoothly (which isn't to imply that it doesn't still have its own unique characteristics/quirks for its age). I've invested several thousand dollars over the last few years alone (details below), but with my infrequent use of late as I get older (as well, even with it being super fun to drive still, it's not ideal for hauling kids around to school), I'm going to let the next owner decide if they want to repair the fender/body panel/hood, or tear it down and 'soup it up with a lift kit? (currently it does not have any frame or body mods), or just use it for parts...
Even with the fender/hood/body panel damage, **she still runs and drives great!** The fender/etc. issue didn't impact the engine / radiator / steering / alignment or tire. The only noted performance issue (aside from the hit it took to its pride), is the left body panel (driver's side of Jeep) pushed back slightly, that in turn affected the driver's side door operation (see photos for bend in metal just in front of the lower driver's side door), which lightly jammed up the driver's side door. As a result, you now have to slightly tug the door to open it, as well- nudge it from the inside (to open it again) when you want to get out. The door still opens/closes/latches (one quick solution would just be to take the door's off!, its now more that the driver's side door doesn't open/close ideally any longer).
This is a 'southern car', having never seen a northern winter/rusting/exposure to salt. The frame only has very light surface rust in a few spots (minor), which is more just an indication of its age (see pics below for undercarriage). She has power steering, power brakes, tilt wheel (no A/C). It comes with multiple replacement soft tops (all Bestop) which are aging, but all still work as they should. You get the normal full soft top as shown in the main pics, as well as a full bikini soft top set (bikini top, full Windjammer center w/ window, rear Tonneau cover - which is how the Jeep is currently set up). As a throw-in, this even includes a used trail cover, mainly to keep leaves out, or to act as a simple sun shield (not to be confused with a winter/storage cover).
It does have some of the usual Jeep rust in misc. places, but the tub and fenders are free from any meaningful rusting (no rust holes!). She does have plenty of small "beauty" marks (wear/tear). Up until about a year ago, I drove this to and from work almost daily (but it only amounted to a 10-minute drive each way, so less than 10K annually). While I haven't had much free time to off-road in the past 15 years as I'd prefer, I did regularly check that all still worked as it should with the 4WD (it still has a ton of torque in 4-low!).All said - it has NO ISSUES driving (even with the fender issue). She handles like a charm, has no issue / wobbles at highway speed. I'm including all known "character issues" below that I hadn't gotten around to fixing yet, as well, a list/price of repairs that I've put into it in the past ~24 or so months to keep her running smoothly. Please take a good look at all the pictures and feel free to ask any questions, I'd love for her to go to a good home!
KNOWN ISSUES
- has occasional very small engine oil leak: I've been working on repairing this for years [see repairs below], but this minor leak still seems to come back from time to time, as it's been there on-again/off-again for 15+ years now; (the original owner said a seal near the transfer case originally leaked, she had it repaired, I've since fully replaced the transfer case, transmission, multiple engine gaskets and seals, so I'm honestly not sure what's left to cause it, but it has never amounted to any functional engine concern, I've just changed the oil regularly- the windshield's front weather seal does leak water during a hard rain (into the inside floorboards), but the inner drain plugs were removed long ago (and the water simply runs out just as fast; and life goes on)- the clear-coat on the hood is all but gone (paint is still present); but at this point, if you're going to replace the hood, the paint is kind of a non-issue on the hood (not sure if you can bend the hood back / repair it? I'll leave that up to the new owner's skill level / choice); the overall paint is a little faded front-to-back in spots, the photos show a decent representation of what you'll get overall in mixed lighting when I took multiple pictures
- fuel gauge: works, but it's off by a half!? When tank is full, it reads past full, when tank is empty, it still reads as half full! Another issue that's been there forever. I've actually tried to fix this (twice!), but each time my mechanics weren't able to get the parts (I've replaced all of the fuel lines twice in the past 20 years, and each time I've had the fuel tank dropped for said repairs, I've attempted to have them fix the 'sending unit' in the tank (which is apparently what's wrong with it, it's not the gauge), they can't seem to get the part any more. I gave up trying to fix it and just reset the trip-odometer when I refuel every 200 miles (and/or using the gauge only as a back-up, so... best to refill when it says half a tank!).
- inner air vent switch (hot/cold vent): the plastic attach-point broke, and is next to impossible to repair (opted not to replace the entire inner/underside cockpit when I saw that bill); instead, it's a two-step process to set the vent to 'cold' (move the slide to cold, and manually flip the vent arm to the left (it's just under the glove-box, easily reachable); for warm, just move the slide to 'warm' and it'll still function as it should (look- I just saved you too over $500 in repairs, ha!) all other environmental controls work fine (blower, window defrost setting, heat works great)
- original seat covers (driver's/passenger side) are grey vinyl, with the seat's splitting many years ago: (the usual duct tape on them at this point); functionally - the seats still are great (OEM under the seat covers); the solution was simply to put a pair of $200 neoprene covers over the splitting OEM seats, and walla - super comfy (again, life goes on)
- floor stains: (on factory carpet) come and go over time from having most of the inner drain plugs removed (you can see some in some inner pics). You can put plugs back in for a minimal cost, but then any rain water won't drain out as easily (it's a catch-22). It's black factory carpet, still in surprisingly good condition for its age; I've just opted to pull it all out every few years, soap it up, scrub/wash/rinse/replace the carpet back into the vehicle whenever it got too dirty for my taste (I've always kept the Jeep clean; wear/tear is more just from being 27 years old / in the sun most of its life being used / just being enjoyed!)
- left tail break-light flickers off every now and again randomly: (the running light (at night) always works when you turn on your lights, as well- the turn signal always works too, it's just something in the wiring on the left brake light that seems to have a mind of its own). No clue why (it's not the bulb, feel free to put a new bulb in, it won't fix it!). I paid upwards of $500 (twice!) over the past 20 years to have two different Jeep dealerships try to track down wherever the assumed short is (they couldn't find it; after $1000 trying, I gave up)
- the 'top light bulb' on the speedometer/odometer doesn't light very much any more: (it's not burnt out; its also one of those intermittent things). I haven't had a need to drop the front instrument-cluster panel in a very long time, so I haven't gotten around to putting a new light bulb in it yet (speedometer/odometer work fine, lower lights still let you see the gauge at night)
- none of the door's key locks work from the outside: (i.e., the doors won't lock with the key - the driver and passenger side will still lock if you can get the inner lock switch to flip, but then you have to reach in to unlock them to open the doors) in the end, really? there's zero point in ever locking this vehicle if you've ever owned a soft-top Jeep; it has 1/2 doors - no matter WHAT you do, you will never secure *anything* inside it; anyone can open any Jeep soft-top by just sticking their finger in the window's zipper edge and unzipping the window in about 10 seconds, and hence get into the vehicle; if you really feel the need, the mechanisms to replace the key locks are fairly in expensive (it's a broken plastic clip on each door), just never saw the need given the obvious nature of a zippered-shut soft top
- driver's side door's inner lower body panel - it could use three or four of the pins/prongs to hold the inner body panel on a touch better to the actual door (this has nothing to do with the outer body damage, I just never seemed to find the time (or memory?) when I was at the dealership in the past 20 years to remember to buy $10 worth of those replacement pins); doesn't impact the door's operation, strictly cosmetic
- the yellow trail cover that's included as a bonus: it's getting kind of ratty, but still works to keep leaves out. It's a lighter-weight material, and the sides where the tension straps are could use sewing; has some staining from use, as well as one small hole; nothing to spend any real time or money worrying about, just letting you know
- the top-left windshield pin (for securing the full soft-top roof's frame) broke off years ago: the bill to replace/repair was shocking; my mechanic said it was a common break (over time, especially if you take down/put up the soft-top a lot); he knew of a 10-cent solution -- he put a large screw in replace of the cracked off plastic pin! Seriously. That screw is still stronger than the original plastic factory pin! (talk about a simple design flaw they should have easily resolved, sheesh). That screw could use some black paint or something, but admittedly, when the full soft top is on, you don't even see it (as the frame lock slides over it). But then again, the top black frame edges could use some serious black painting (both sides, at the top, just below the soft-top, where the snaps slide/buckle into place). Looking down the road, whenever that other plastic lock-pin eventually breaks off (it's not showing any sign yet), I recommend you get a similar 10-cent screw and make both sides match. That repair will likely outlive the whole vehicle!- could use some replacement wiper blades (sorry, just saw that when taking pictures to sell it, otherwise would've replaced them again/already)
RECENT REPAIRS (this is just the last ~2 to 3 years, about $7,000 invested in parts/labor, not counting standard maintenance; I've put in $20K+ over the life of it; as such, not a whole lot that would need replacing any time soon that I'm aware of, unless you just wanted to buy new parts/make fun improvements):
- new transfer case: $1,395.65
- rebuilt transmission; new clutch master and slave cylinder; new differential carrier assembly; new ring-and-pinion gear set: $3,563.64
- new engine exhaust manifold: $472.75
- new serpentine belt: $90.50
- new Goodyear Wrangler five (5) [exact size/type: P235/75R15 105S SRA]slightly over-sized tires: $704.60
- new battery and electrical lead wires: ~$150
- new rear main oil seal; new valve cover gasket; new oil pan gasket: $417.98 (latest attempt to fix intermittent oil leak; got most of it!)
- new windshield-wiper linkage: $175.00
As for the new tires on the Jeep, they've less than 3K miles on them. I haven't even had a chance to rotate the brand new/5th spare (on the tailgate) in yet, its still 100% new. You can re-coup nearly half of the opening bid by just taking the five tires off (and that's not even counting the 5 OEM original aluminum alloy 5-spoke rims!).
Other fun: the radio is a single-CD Pioneer with animated graphics from 15 years ago (still a hoot; I've always favored the infinity spiral animation!). The original radio-cassette died and this was best replacement I could find at the time ($400+ radio back then). Has a removable face-plate, and even a wireless remote control (which could use a new battery in the remote, that or you can make the herculean 20" stretch to manually control the radio like 99.99% of other folks do (but seriously, get a new remote battery, it's *so* much more fun to have a remote!!). All the speakers where matched with the radio back then, a full Pioneer system. The rear sound boxes are Thor Enterprise brand (similar to Sound Wedge, but fit better against the lower roll-bar, and sound a touch better on acoustics)If it's Jeep-related and in the photos, you get it! No added cost for the DMB (Dave Matthews Band) rear sticker. The NASA license plate is yours too; I suggest you don't drive it too much with that on the rear though (it spent most of its life on the front bumper, but it just doesn't feel right not to give it to the new owner... in full disclosure: this Jeep will not make to orbital speed of ~17,500 mph with that license plate, but it'll still go pretty fast for a Wrangler all the same!).Here's what else you get (that didn't make the photos):
- two Jeep ignition keys (...for also locking the center-column/storage/map box, etc.)
- original Owners Manual
- original Warranty Manual (warranty long expired!)
- security locking OEM factory lug nut (to take the 5th wheel off the tailgate)
In the end, I honestly hate to part with it. It's obviously a 27-year old vehicle, hardly new. I'm not looking to barter or trade for this; just trying to re-coup a little on what I've invested over the years (and trying not to get too depressed going forward, driving my kids around in a mini-van). The Jeep has a lot of little wear here and there (that would take an even longer opus to document). If you're looking for a high-grade vintage vehicle, this isn't it. But, if you've read this much, hopefully you've at least an idea of what you're buying. If anything, this **IS** the ideal off-roading toy! I'll miss how much fun it is to drive!! This is hopefully meant for someone who loves Jeeps, and getting it a little dirty/going off-road every now and again (with this one, its still got some looks left in her, and you aren't going to cry if it takes a small scratch, it'll just get more character!).More pics to follow, please ask any questions before bidding, and thank you again for looking!





















Good Luck & thanks for looking! = )

SHIPPING: Delivery up to ~50-mile radius from northern Alabama / zip code 35758. Delivery not offered for further distances (buyer to pick up or arrange shipment outside this approximate radius).
PAYMENT INSTRUCTIONS: PayPal is the preferred method of payment for the down-payment. Remainder balance is to be paid in full prior to local delivery or final pick-up, via cashier's check, money order(s), or cash. Not open to trades.
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