1966 Land Rover Land Rover Base 2.3L

Description for Land Rover Other 1966

1966 Land Rover Series IIA 88"

Attention!!! Please message or email me if you'd like additional photos of this truck. I have a lift, nd can take photos from any angle. I didn't put up a ton of photos on ebay because it costs to do so. Again, essage or email me and I'll send you photos of whatever you ask for. Email is tdhixon@gmail.com. Thanks!

This is a nice solid IIA that doesn't need much in the way of work. It will make a great driver, hich was its purpose under my ownership. There is a long list of new parts and such that I will do my best to list out below. I've done a ton to this truck, ncluding restoring the bulkhead (firewall) and having it hot dip galvanized before painting. In fact, ost all the parts that rust on Rovers have been galvanized or re galvanized. I went through this thing intending to do all the stuff needed to make it last, nfortunately I can't keep it.

If you want more photos please let me know and I will email them to you.

Things that have been hot dip galvanized include: The bulkhead (new foot boxes, og house, oorposts installed), rame (bought from Rovers North and then primed and painted black), nbsp;windshield frame, nbsp;16" steel wheels, eat racks, oor frames (door skins were removed), ll trim pieces, nd the radiator panel (breakfast). Note: I probably forgot some things. If it looks silver its been hot dipped and not painted.

Brakes: new master cylinder, heel cylinders (all four wheels), ew cunifer copper nickel brake lines, ll fittings new. Also, converted the truck to a dual master cylinder system with vacuum booster which is also new.

Clutch: new clutch, ew master cylinder, ew slave cylinder, ew conifer lines, nd new flexible line.

Ball joints: ball joints seals, -joints etc. are all new

Wheel Bearings: all four wheels new.

Steering: steering relay is new, teering box was overhauled. All new tie rod ends, nd new tie rods. The tie rods are not original rover, ut instead an upgraded set that are much stronger.

Tires: 5 brand new Firestone 215/85 16 Destination M/T's

Engine: Head is 9:1 and rebuilt within the last 500 miles. The bottom end of the motor is in great shape so I didn't rebuild it. It makes excellent compression and passes a leak down test. The motor is strong, nd peppy (for a 2.25 Petrol) and holds its speed well up hills. It has a new fuel pump, ew alternator (converted to a GM 12SI with the Pangolin 4x4 kit), ew hoses, ew weber carburetor.

Gearbox: This is the original IIA gear box, hich does not have syncros in gears 1 or 2. That means you have to double clutch when upshifting from 1st to 2nd, nd when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, r 2nd to 1st. I went through the gearbox and replaced any bearings that were worn and all the oil seals and gaskets. I also replaced the intermediate gear shaft, earings, nd trust washers. It shifts smoothly (unless you don't know how to double clutch!) in both 2x4 and 4x4 high range and low range. It does wine a bit in 4th gear at highway speeds when letting off the gas and shifting to neutral. The whine quiets down once the truck slows or if you downshift. These things really weren't designed to drive on the interstate, o if I were keeping it I'd put an overdrive in it or the Ashcroft high range box from Rovers North. That would be a great option as it would also get you syncros in 1st and 2nd gears.

Exhaust: brand new.

Battery: New Optima Yellow Top

Wiring: I wired this truck with an EZ Wiring 12 circuit harness. I did this because I wanted to make the truck more dependable. The original harness has only two fuses for every circuit, here are now separate fused circuits for everything. In addition, ts simpler to understand for someone not used to dealing with old british wiring. I also used a grounding harness so all grounds flow directly back to the negative pole of the battery instead of through the frame to the battery via a grounding strap. Headlights, ail lights and blinkers, orn are all wired through relays. This equals brighter headlights/tail lights and blinkers. All connectors are either GM weather lock or marine grade crimp on. If you just can't stand it, t's a cheap swap to go back to the original wiring harness, nd would take a weekend to complete.

I also used an updated ignition switch but I have the old switch if you'd like to convert back to it.

Ignition: Brand new Pertronix distributor. The original Lucas 25D also comes with the truck in case you want to switch back or to carry as a backup.

Tops: Truck comes with a brand new Exmoor soft top and hoop set. It also comes with an unrestored hard top (not a safari top). It needs to be painted, ut I did hot dip galvanize the drip rail trim and install it, nd I have all new hard top seals.

Suspension: Springs were bought from Rovers North and are the original type springs. I considered parabolics but I don't like the feel of them in turns. Shocks are all new Rancho Suspension brand.

Take a good look at the paint work. My motivation wasn't to have a perfect IIA. I like to drive my cars, o I didn't do any bodywork before I had the panels painted. There are dings and dents here and there. Also, he paint job is not the best out there. There are a couple of runs. The entire body was stripped to bare birmabright and then pained with epoxy primer and paint. I also used a bedliner on the rear bed floor and the floor pans, eat box, nd foot wells of the bulkhead. I had some left over so I sprayed inside the fender wells also.

Interior: I made the seats out of grey leather, ith vinyl backs. The door panels are made of the same vinyl. The arm rests are from Rovers North and are the new elephant hide pattern. I will include extra vinyl that I have left over if you'd like to have the arm rests recovered to match everything else.

Weather Stripping: all new everywhere.

Sill Trim: I have all the trim, and it is the wide trim (below the doors) that came on a IIA. I never straightened it up and had it painted because I intended to build a set of rock sliders for this truck but never got around to it. Pangolin 4x4 is a source for sliders, r Rovers North as a second choice. I will take photos of the trim and email them if you'd like to see the trim pieces.

I have a ton of extra parts that go with the truck. Some are extra body panels (like a couple of wing panels and a new door skin and doors). I'll take photos of everything as best I can. I have an extra head that needs a rebuild as well. I'm not sure there is room to pack all the stuff I've got into the Rover so if you want it, ou might have to come get it all or pay to have it shipped.

Wiper Motors: I took them apart, leaned them up and replaced the old grease in the housings with new grease. The only issue with them is that the rubber insulators that insulate the hot wire into the motor side of the casing are old and a little brittle. Every once in a while, he hot wire will wiggle loose and short to the casing causing the fuse to blow. This needs to be fixed at some point.

This is a really nice rover that's had all the really hard stuff done. Also, did a lot of the extra stuff like galvanizing the bulkhead and door frames that doesn't get done on most series trucks that come up for sale. This one will last a while, nd you won't have to worry about the rust issues that most rovers have for a long time. I do not have a title for this truck. Georgia will not issue a title for cars of this age, nd the previous owner did not have a title. Georgia issued a registration for the vehicle based on a check of the VIN. I will offer a bill of sale (obviously) so that the truck can be registered.

Terms: This truck is sold "as is," and there is no warranty of any kind offered. Winning bidder must send a $500.00 non-refundable deposit withing 48 hours of winning the auction. Winning bidder must contact me via email within 24 hours to make payment arrangements. I'll accept cashiers checks, ertified funds, r verified bank drafts from known institutions only.