1993 Mazda RX-7 R1

Description for Mazda RX-7 1993

You're bidding on an original 1993 Mazda RX-7 authentic R1 in red/black with approximately 52,400 miles.
Please note that the odometer currently reads 2837 because the odometer & speedo were replaced at 49,500 miles.
The Autocheck report verifies the accurate mileage history prior to that change. This is a clean, solid, well
maintained example with all the desired reliability mods/updates as well as smart, conservative performance mods
that makes it easy, fun and ready to drive.
Here's highlights of the updates, mods and other key features of the car followed by a detailed history of the car.
More pictures to come tomorrow.
Cooling
- Peter Farrell intake and intercooler
- Linearized temp gage
- Fluidyne radiator and aluminum AST
- Electronic Fans bypass switch
- New dual electronic fans
- Dual oil coolers (R1)
Power
- 10k miles on rebuild (done @ Rotary Performance)
- Stainless downpipe
- Borla catback
- Profec B boost controller
- PFS boost gauge (column mounted)
- Rotary Performance midpipe and resonated test pipe (comes with both)
- Rotary Performance High Flow Fuel Pump
- 13psi tune making 313whp (Tuned by Chris at Rotary Performance)
- Apexi Power FC and Commander
- ID2200 Secondary Injectors
- Excedy Stage II clutch
- ACT Streetlight flywheel
- New Vacuum Hoses
- Stock Ported Wastegate (reduces boost creep)
- New drivers side motor mount
- Engine strut brace (R1)
Suspension and Braking
- Stainless Steel braided brake lines
- Stainless Steel clutch line
- Tein Flex coilovers
- Stoptech rotors and pads
- Rotary Performance solid diff bushings
- Rotary Performance solid toe links
- Full Powerflex rear suspension bushings
- New Suspension Pillowballs in rear
- Continental Extreme Contact DW tires (235/45 ZR17 front, 275/40 ZR17 rear, 18K miles, plenty tread left)
- New Redline fluid in the transmission and diff
- New Brake fluid
- Painted brake calipers (oh come on, it looks tits)
Miscellaneous
- Front lip spoiler & read spoiler (R1)
- Special suede interior (R1)
- 3M clear bra (front good condition, rear view mirrors peeling a bit)
- Viper Alarm system/keyless entry
- HID headlights with Oracle Ballasts
- Pioneer Appradio3 Nav Stereo
- Alpine V9 5 Channel amp
- New Mazda odometer/speedo at 49.5K miles
- New battery
What Does the Car NEED now?
- Tachometer works but intermittently sticks/misreads ( Intermittent so minor annoyance for me )
- Left headlight bobs up and down intermittently when car turned on or off, eventually locks in place
(Rarely driven at night so a non-issue for me)
I'm the 6th owner of the car. It started life in California, moved to New Mexico, possibly briefly Arkansas,
before coming to Texas to the previous owner and then me. There are years of maintenance/modification records
contained with the car as well as a real shop manual and some extra parts. You even get copies of a couple of
speeding tickets from prior owners. The paint is original and in excellent shape with only a few minor nicks.
The only evidence of any prior damage to the car are documents showing a respray of a rear panel which I
would not have known without the paperwork. The special R1 interior is clean, beautiful and very
comfortable. The car has been garage kept 100% of the time by at least the last 3 owners.
The best way to really understand the condition of this car is to read the previous owner's description of the
history of the car, what he did to it prior to me buying it and why those mods/updates were important.
I totally agree with everything he says here and it has all proven to be absolutely true in my experience
with the car. Keep in mind that this is an individual with fanatical attention to detail and he used that focus
to completely sort through the car so that I've had to do little more than base maintenance and enjoy driving it.
I've owned all 3 generations of RX-7s and an RX-8 and this car is absolutely the top of the food chain.
I've owned the car less than 2 years, I still love it and get a rush every time I look at it or drive it but I need
the garage space and I'm simply not driving it enough so someone else needs to enjoy it.
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History as Written by the Previous Owner in Dec/2014 to help understand the car
I purchased the car in Feb/2013 with about 32k miles on it. It was pristine and mostly un-touched.
The owner had it in his position for 10 years and only put 10k miles on it. How he controlled himself
to that extent, I’ll never know. He kept records of EVERYTHING and I still have these records. I like
to think of it as a medical history; one I’ve added to whilst I owned the car. While the previous owner
showed his love of the car by keeping it clean and in the garage. I chose to keep it clean, improve it,
and drive it. So I now in Dec/2014 have 43,500 miles on the clock and all of them were incredible
miles I’m lucky to have driven. Owning an FD was a life goal for the last 12 years of my life. I knew
if I didn’t own one at some point I’d always regret it. So one day I pulled the trigger. It’s been the best
2 year ride of my LIFE!
I like to think of this car as a proper turn key RX7. While some of the remaining FD’s still run, they
are either on their last leg or need a LOT of maintenance. Truth be told, it’s the little things that get
you. Sensors, bushings, hoses, coolant seals, etc…all of that ages even if the car isn't driven. Thus,
knowing what I know now, I'd think twice about buying a low mileage FD with the ORIGINAL
engine/coolant seals. In addition to a fresh rebuild on the engine (done by Chris at Rotary Performance),
I've done my part to replace nearly all of these things to ensure this car is just about as solid as it gets.
The mindset I had when modifying the car was, “Will this make the car more reliable, more solid, or r
efresh something that’s aged with a superior part?” Literally everything was done according to a very
meticulous plan. If you look at the list of modifications you’ll find that most of them weren't glamorous
or showy. They were all mods you’d never know existed on the car unless you were under the hood
or had the car on a lift.
Cooling System
When I bought the car it already had a Fluidyne aluminum radiator and aluminum AST
(air separation tank) installed along with a Peter Ferell Intake system and larger SMIC (
stock mount intercooler). I also have a fan bypass switch for the electric radiator fans (which are
also fairly new) allowing you to turn on the fans on HIGH at any given time. The temperature gauge
has also been linearized, allowing it to read more accurately. Additionally, the Apexi Power FC gives
you more accurate, digital reading of the water temps. The car normally runs at 83C 100% of the time
which is perfect. I’ve also recently replaced the low coolant sensor (October 2013) since it was crying
wolf when I had a full system of coolant. New thermostat was installed in October 2014. I live in Texas
where it’s quite hot so if I can keep the car cool where I live you KNOW the cooling system is robust!
A cool rotary is a happy rotary! Speaking of cooling, did I mention that the AC in the car had recently
been recharged with new R12 Freon? Even after 22 years it really didn't need much but I just topped
it off to make sure I was getting the most out of it here in the Texas heat. It blows EXTREMELY cold!
Power and Fuel System
The engine was recently rebuilt by Chris at Rotary Performance. All new side and corner seals with
2mm Goopy apex seals. New internal gasket and o-rings and front and rear main seals; basically all
new seals and new multi-window bearings. The stock paper gaskets for intake, oil, and coolant
connections were all replaced too. While it was under the knife, we replaced ALL the vacuum
hoses with new tubing since the factory stuff likes to dry rot from heat and age. It might not seem
like a huge upgrade, but if you've had to deal with locating a vacuum leak in the “rats nest” you know
how valuable this upgrade really is. I have about 25ft of extra vacuum hose that will be included in
the sale too. The car is setup with the stock twin turbos operating sequentially. However, I ported the
stock wastegate such that you can run a straight through exhaust and not experience boost creep.
The exhaust is 3” all the way back including a catless stainless steel downpipe (keeps engine bay
cooler), Rotary Performance midpipe, and Borla catback. The car comes with two mid pipes. One is
a straight through design with a resonator and the other has a high flow cat for that once a year sniff
test. The midpipe with the cat allows the car to pass emissions with no issue since I still have the
stock air pump. The car is running an Apexi Power FC and commander unit. It was dyno tuned by
Chris at Rotary Performance with a 13PSI map when I added a brand new RP high flow fuel pump.
The car also has ID2200 secondary injectors with new injector orings (May 2014). The car made a
conservative 313whp and it will make much more with the addition of a larger turbo. Right now the
system is primed and ready for more boost! We could have squeezed a bit more out of it but I chose
to keep it at a conservative/safe level for the time being. You can choose to watch the boost on the
PFC Commander but I much prefer the PFS physical boost gauge that’s mounted on the steering
column since it’s in the same line of sight of the rest of the gauges. Like I said, this car is READY
to make more power. Prior to the PFC the car had a Greddy Profec SpecII boost controller which
I’ve removed but will include in the sale. While the engine was out of the car, we also installed an
Exedy stage II clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel (October 2014). The lightweight flywheel makes
rev matching a DREAM while still being very drivable. I also added a stainless steel clutch line.
Additionally, we replaced the drivers side motor mount since it’s a different design from the
passenger side mount (from the factory) and they tend to fail over time.
Suspension and Braking
The car has Tein Flex coilovers that are fully adjustable (height as well as dampener stiffness) that
have about 12k on them. I recently replaced all the pillow ball joints as well as the control arm and
trailing arm bushings in the rear of the car. New pillow balls are OEM Mazda units and the bushings
are Powerflex. In addition to this, I’ve also replaced the diff bushings with solid diff mounts from
Rotary Performance. I’ve also added solid toe links from Rotary Performance. The brakes have
been refreshed with braided stainless steel brake lines, Stoptech performance pads, and new
Stoptech slotted rotors. The system was also flushed with performance brake fluid in October 2013.
Speaking of fluids, the transmission and diff fluids were changed in October 2013 too. The tires have
about 9k miles on them and are Continental Extreme Contact DW sizes 235 up front and 275 out back.
The fenders have been rolled just a touch to accommodate the tires so there’s no rubbing. The tires
are wrapped around 17” Antera 121 wheels. The previous owner referred to them as “Period specific”.
I hated them when I bought the car but now I’m in love with them. They really do fit the style of the car.
You have to see them in person, trust me.
Miscellaneous Upgrades
The car has a 3M clear bra on the entire front end and the mirrors. Paint on the car is probably a 9 of 10.
It looks like a new car after a fresh detail but there are a few tiny chips here and there. The clear bra
still is nearly perfect. The only areas that might need attention in a year or so are the clear bra pieces
on the side view mirrors. Without a doubt, the best upgrade I’ve done to the car is install a keyless
entry/alarm system. The unit is a Viper 3202 alarm (comes with two remotes) and was professionally
installed by Soundscape Car Audio. New HID headlights with Oracle ballasts were installed around
the same time since the stock RX7 headlights are extremely shitty. The car also has an in-dash
Pioneer Appradio3 navigation unit with a 5 channel Alpine V9 amp installed in the rear. The door
speakers are Morel 5.25” drivers and the tweeters are Wavecor 1” tweeters. There is also a MiniDSP
sound processor installed too. The amp is setup to run a subwoofer but I never got around to putting
one in. You literally just need to plug one into the amp.
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I'll be happy to answer any other questions you may have and provide more pictures as needed.