1930 HUPMOBILE Six model S Sedan unrestored driving barn car

Description for Other Makes S 1930

Barn shape . nrestored 1930 Hupmobile Six model s 4 door sedan. Original 68. 00 miles. runs and drives Note: We continually been driven this the car every chance we get which is about daily with out rain(it has seen drizzle and some light snow) It's starts up so far at 11 degrees . buy must admit it is STIFF! Interested parties can call 203-5965-8128 for more info. Here some random rambling thoughts as they come to me. . THIS IS A CAR WITH NO TITLE AVAILABE! A common situation and not a problem in many areas but can be in others . can't help you with one . nbsp;have no interest in doing so. do not ask about it! If you are not creative or experienced with vintage car registration I suggest you move on. Barn shape . nrestored 1930 Hupmobile Six model s 4 door sedan. Original 65. 00 miles. Owned by the same family till 3-1/2 or so years ago. . You get a CT bill of sale and copy of Bill of Sale to me with some old paper work from the previous owner. he car was purchased new Oct 1929. The car was recently put back into a driving condition after being in storage since 1948 and was re- registered in 1955 with the new antique auto plates but never driven. It is starting easy . as decent running engine . and a drivable car. All lamps work. Head lamp high and low and via foot switch. arking lamps. tail and stop lamp. Dash and dome light. Ah-oogha horn ! Speedo working well. Fuel. amp-meter and oil pressure gauges . re O. k. wiper motor is working. Just prior the '48 storage ( as related from the original family ) the Hupp was rehabbed with a upper engine overhaul and lighter blue paint job . A family friend acquired the car as part payment for a job. nd did nothing much with the car but starting it 3 years ago and run it around the yard a few times. I recently purchased the car from him and got it actually road-able. The car is 95% complete with no real modifications . . Nothing presently is restored just . asic inspection . aintenance and select repairs etc. were made to make it drivable . Which includes but not just limited to the following. Clean up split wheel rims. Install 5 new 5:50X19 tires. new tubes and flaps. the wood wheels are VERY solid) remove all wheels/hubs clean up brakes parts. and replace various broken brake springs. clean pins and cables. Repair Hand brake assembly. rough out brake adjustment. Clean and repack front wheel bearings. nbsp; Chassis lube . peedo cable cleaned and lube. adjust front axle toe- in. Flush out transmission and rear end. refill with 600w oil. Top off lube in steering gear box . Change engine oil with 30W ND. Adjust clutch . epair and clean carburetor. a 1940's " Universal brand" replacement carb) Repair gravity feed. vacuum fuel pump assembly . Clean out and repair and seal fuel tank with Redcote. Have new fuel tank sending unit made. FLush out cooling system. New radiator hoses installed. Cleaned out and service distributor assembly . ew spark plugs. ignition plug wiring. distributor cap. otor. points . condenser . N. O. S generic 6v Remy coil installed. Oiled horn motor. plus water-pump. throw-out bearing. starter and generator . Install a correct size replacement muffler and install a good temporary tail pipe. Rear window was replaced with standard safety plate and left front door window riser spring replaced. . /p>Non stock parts are. Older replacement carburetor as mentioned above. The lighting combination dash switch is a 1940's replacement mounted below the original dash hole under the dash. Ignition switch lock is a generic replacement. Head lamp reflectors are new repro 2 bulb type so your headlamps plus parking lamps in the head lights plus original fender parking lamps. Bulb sockets and connectors and wire conduits are repro Model A Ford type adapted. (the car had sealed beam conversions when I acquired it)Note :the parking lamps have been repaired at the base and mounting and all lamps have typical and various bezel rim splits or cracks. Some splits have been re-enforced with brass strips and soldered on the inside edges. Roof top is original and tarred over a few times. The drip moldings have seen a few screws to hold them on so I assume the nails are loosing grip. Most of the wood bows either have some twist or show a small crack or split from shrinkage. Floor sills look good. The body and fenders etc. have various spots of surface rust . All doors hang and work o. k for old car door. . All door latches work. Windows risers are stiff. except for the re-wooed right door which is great now that it has new glass runners. The inner doors and window crank handles are either broken or falling apart. I have the escutcheons and back springs. I purchase a new exact repro in stainless steel front windshield winder crank handle. I duplicated the front wood floor boards. and installed them. The rear body floor pan . ight under the rear window area (between rear seat and back body). has been repaired and 2 small sections about 2 x 6 inches on each side of the rear floor pan that goes over the rear frame hump. The car has a sort of double rear fame cross member. One outer member and one inner for member for the rear fuel tank to bolt to and spare tire mount. There is some heavy pitting with a few rust through holes in IT only. from accumulation of crap build up between it and the fuel tank. It is in extremely solid condition and we thought it would do more harm then good to repair or replace it as it is still very solid and would only be cosmetic to do so. I have most bits of the interior that were removed and the rear floor foot rail. . nbsp;which is rusty and has one broken sheet metal hinge piece. The right front door is starting to show rust through the lower molding but the bottom of the door appears not to be rotted out. (we cleaned the metal and glassed over it in and out while rewooding the door to arrest it make It look good) . The left front cowl is showing a rust hole in the mold bead. There is a small rust hole in the splash apron under the center door pillar on the right side. Fenders are solid but have bumps and dings and some small cracks were the front fenders meet at the front noise of the splash apron . Right front fender has a rip at running board edge. Fenders and aprons are quick and dirty brush painted flat black. Running boards are practical . sable strong temps made from old heavy shelving metal and small stove bolts. They can easily be mig welded solid to remove screws and covered with matting and period type aluminum trim or used for a pattern. The radiator shell is pitted. The front bumper bracket at the right frame mount shows an old iron overlay repair over a crack. I have the original white metal cast radiator cap. The threads are shot and it has a hole that rotted up from the inside out. Known missing parts are left front shock. Rear apron valance panel that covers the frame and fuel tank(under the spare tire mount) Crank hole cover for radiator shell is gone . Stamped sheet metal cover pan for the bottom of the bell housing(covers lower flywheel)gone. . Missing are the 4 small tear drop shaped (about the size of a quarter)covers that screw on . ne at each wheel brake drum. between 2 spokes to cover a hole to measure brake shoe clearance . and the 4 oval covers about 1-1/4 X 2 that screw on the back of each brake backing plate to gain access to the major brake adjustment bolt(Steeldraulic brakes by Midland). The car starts well. drives with the typical winey first and second gears of crash box transmissions and quiet 3rd. Clutch is fairly easy and smooth. though it developed a intermittent fuzzy rattle in the through-out bearing area that we are not too worried about presently)) Steering very easy once rolling. stops pretty good but has a squeal at the last second of a stop. The doors and glass rattle a bit of bumpy road bumps. We were previously driving the car to do local errands every day it wasn't raining with an occasional short trip out of town . There are no spare parts worth mentioning. Note: the original Connecticut plates 1930 are not included . But the crank handle. hup-cap wrench and jack with it's crank are. plus split rim latch lever and lug wrench combo!Any question ? please leave ample time for a reply. Now for the sticky details with no exceptions or changes assumed by or to made up by you the buyer to suite you . Any possible changes of these details only to be made by negotiations agreed to by me prior to the sale. The drill abbreviated . 1)You bid. (2)you win. (3)you make the deposit. (4) you make arrangements to come pay for the car. and (5) you come to pay for the car . nd take the car away. It's just that simple . Shipping or pick up of car is the buyers responsibility 100% . Winner is to pay a minimum of $250. 00 non returnable Paypal deposit with in 24 hours of auction end with no exception . (auction contract of sale broken with no require deposit made within the set period)Winner to make telephone contact with seller(if needed leave a message for a prompt call back is fine and adjusted for time limits ) within 48 hours of auction ending to plan the date for the car's full payment and removal with in 10 days of auction end with no exceptions. (failure to make contact with in 48 hours of auction end . oids the contact even with deposit made). (You know you bid. and won and have to make arrangements. so continue. follow through. there is no reason for stalling short of croaking . Figure out your needs or requirements to get the car before hand. not after you with the auction . Winner or his carrier or proxy comes to the automobile's location at the agreed time and the balance of the winning bid amount (less the $250. 00 deposit) is paid in cash only and all paper work exchanged with no exceptions. Winner or carrier or proxy loads up the car and other loose items that maybe included with sale . with no exceptions . The car will be held for 10 days maximum from winning date of auction closing in garage storage on the 250. 00 deposit. The 10th day after the auction end . s the last day of the auction contract set by me the seller and agreed to by you by bidding. If the car's balance is nor paid for in full and car removed by this time. . he auction contact set by me and which you agreed to by bidding would be broken by you and will now be void. You loose your deposit . the car remains mine . In essence there is no longer any commitment or binding contract for me to sell you the car at that point. I take no responsibility for any lose or damage while the car being stored but naturally will take all reasonably care of the car. . The car will not be driven about . nly to be temporarily moved if necessary to gain garage access for what every reason I may need. If you do not want to complete the auction . you loose your deposit if made in the required 24 hours after auction close and get reported as a non paying bidder and all that goes with that . This happens at any stage of a default made you . he winner voiding the contract. There is no point for you to try and make good after the fact. Once we set in motion the details to get the selling fees back ASAP . e have no interest in dealing with you or selling you the car at that point. . Additional info as added through the previous auctions :The primer area at the rear of the body. Do to a leaky rear window way back when the lower rear floor pan at the very extreme rear was crummy and also a beam of wood. A simple replacement repair as mention before was made of shaped metal bolted it in . ot tack welded and new wood beam reproduced. nbsp; . The lower body belt molding also had some small lacey holes( rust hole spots) right over the frame horns too. I decided with the body on the chassis it was too difficult to repair with a new custom made steel panel and chose not to chop out the metal. but make a very serviceable blended re-enforced repair by just over laying the interior metal and exterior metal around the lacey moulding area with 2 thin layers of fiberglass . Leveled it and gave the exterior a skim coat of autobody filler and smoothed it out. The body is NOT rusted up several inchs and plastered with bondo. LOL. There Is 90% or better metal right to the bottom edge back there and the replacement floor plan is bolted to it's edge. ot a museum job but a very serviceable strong good looking job. ust so you know. That's the only autobody repair work done on the car. other a few small holes in the right door lower molding (see about door re-wood) As mentioned do local errands(summer time now winter) often with the car and have made some short runs out of town for fun and debugging etc. So far all was doing ell enough. In summer we took this beasty Huppster out for a longer run with some good long steady driving of 40 -45 mph of 20 -30 minutes round trip for" coffee/and" in the next town. When we were close to home I notice the motor meter was raising well above normal . and beat it home the last mile. We didn't over heat or boil over but were running hotter than should be and lost some water along the way. We previously did self clean out . flush back and forth the radiator with preparations for such and thought all was good . ith good flow. eing fairly clean and car was running O. K. on the cool side. (on shorter trips) but are now running hot this run out of town . It can be as simple as that . r the radiator needs a good heavy duty professional boil out. The honey comb radiator does look good with no mangled combs or previous leak repairs known or seen. So that's where we are at. I'm disclosing all I can and know. I feel the best thing about the car is the motor does runs very well and the car is rugged enough you can run it around and restore as you go. I try to let you know all the pros and cons. We no longer will respond to any offers even to say "no thank you" We will consider $6. 00 on a local off line buy. Opps! gotta go. . the sun it out and it's 26 degrees . nd we're taking the Hupp out to buy new banjo strings and some Jim Beam. . Bye. Bye! UPDATE 1/17/2015 4:35 P. M. the following came in my questions box. " I have an open 1930 Hup title here-post this in questions. so the new buyer can buy it if they want and it will also make the sale of your car easier. Price 299. "I'm waiting on further direct contact info. This maybe an actively available title and probably subject to being unavailable at any time.