72 Porsche 911 Custom Build (Tube Frame)

Description for Porsche 911 1972

This was to be a father/son project but he had no interest in being a motor-head. I finished it in the same fashion in which it was originally planned, which was rough and not high quality work. The original concept was for a daily driver, which looks unique. The car is rough by my standards but much of the rough edges can be improved. I have in the last forty years built some 70+ circle track race cars and this was the first street car project for me.
It was a 911T with most of the valuable parts sold off.
I included a picture of one of the A pillars to show the rust. I treated the rust spots, that were not cut out, repeatedly with RUST-SEAL 39304 and have seen no resurgence of activity.
I tied the rusted body down to an I beam structure where it remained until I had removed the old unibody and had the tube frame and roll cage in place.
I installed a very good running 1965 Corvair (110 HP) motor and 4 Speed. All engine and transmission seals have been changed. No leaks at the shift shaft, transmission input, push rod tubes, front or rear seals to my knowledge. However I let it sit in the shop for the last 7 months and it had a small oil spot (damp in a two inch circle about where the drain plug is) which I had never seen before.
It is dependable, unique, road worthy, rough in some areas. I drove it from Louisville Ky to Oshkosh WI and back the second week I had it on the road (August 2013). I drove it to work for a couple months. I have had it quite fast and it is very stable.
I had it on the four corner scales and I think it weighed around 2100 lbs. with 60% being on the rear wheels. I can put it back on the scales if you want an accurate weight.
It is NOT, a race car, or designed to be in a situation where a crash with another vehicle, stationary object or a rollover may occur. It has minimalist bumpers under the fiber glass. I do not believe it will tolerate full throttle take offs or full throttle shifts (half shafts are too small) but after the clutch is out I have flat footed it many times.
It has no gauges but does have idiot lights for the oil pressure and alternator. I use a GPS for the speed and millage since last fill up.
The front and rear fiber glass have patched places where I used body filler and they are cracking. The fiberglass is still available if you want to install new.
I am not a painter and this was my first attempt and it shows.
I sprayed a noise reduction product (similar to rhino liner) on the bottom, front and rear firewalls and got over spray on the tops of the front fenders and a little on the inside of the windshield.
Brakes have all new stainless pistons, rotors, master cylinder, steel lines, and rubber lines.
Heat and front defrost work good. I never hooked up the electric rear defrost.
All door and window seals and track material are new.
I stopped driving it regularly because my insurance carrier would only cover it at a value of $700 and the collector/hot rod insurance required it to be garage kept and only driven on special occasions.
I would be happy to send you any detail photos you would like to see. I would also be open to driving it to the new owner at a rate of $1 per mile. If you are not happy with the purchase I would keep the $1 per mile and refund your money for the car.
I would be willing to accept phone calls to answer any questions. Send me your number.
Good luck!