1984 Grand National Stage Motor

Description for Buick Grand National 1984

This car was put together for the drag strip, but is still tractable on the street. The problem is I spend way more time on the street than the strip. I don't think I've averaged one trip to the track per year in the last 10 so it's time to move it on. My best time was 10.72 @132 on drag radials, and my launches aren't the best. The mph suggests a low 10-second car if you can get it to hook and launch better.
The engine was built by DLS, and the car was put together at Cotton's Performance. The chassis has 57,500 miles on it, but this drivetrain has about 7,000, most of which was in commuter duty or on vacations. Details are below, and I've got receipts and other paperwork which will go with the vehicle. Buyer is welcome to inspect the vehicle and the paperworkbefore final payment. It's not my intention to misrepresent anything.
If you know these cars you'll recognizethe ridiculous amount of money spent here, and you're not even seeing all the things thatwere done over the years. I'm not trying to "get it all back" so don't bother sending mea note with that helpful bit ofwisdom. Feel free to send questions though, and I'll answer them as best I can. If you're in the neighborhood of Hartford, CT you're welcome to stop by and check the car out.
ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN

• 4.1L stage 2 motor built by DLS in 2009. I've got the detailed invoice listing all the parts but I can't find the cam card. It's a Comp Cam, though.
• 72mm GT-K850 turbo, 46mm PTE wastegate
• Methanol injection
• FAST ECU
• Front-mount intercooler, Be-Cool radiator, trans cooler w/fan.
• Headers,3-inch stainless dual exhaust
• The hot wire fuel pump that feeds all this sounds like an angry beehive when powered. It has it's own shut-off switch so if you need the key on and not the engine on you don't have to listen to it.
• 30 spline Eaton posi w/ axles.
• Built 2004R (Janis Transmissions) and I've got the detailed invoice.

Misc

• Baer front brakes done in 2016.
• Hotchkiss rear suspension and swaybar.
• Tubular upper control arms.
• The paint is original, and maybe a 6 at best. Plus I managed to dent the right front corner of the fender through stupidity some years ago. There's a picture of it. If you're looking for a show-car, this isn't it. No rust, though. The car is stored on jack stands in a heated garage from December to April and isn't driven in the snow. I don't even drive it when it's cold because the trans will never get up to temp.
• The tires areMickey Thompson Sportsman 255s in the rear and Uniroyal 215s up front. I think I put the rears on two years ago and the fronts in 2009.
• Spoolfool rear bumper filler.

Interior

• 6-point roll cage w/ removable door bars and rear bar.
• When the cage went in I also lined the floor with Boom Mat and put in a new carpet. You can see the Boom Mat in the trunk, along with the complete trunkcarpet kit that I bought and never installed.
• 5 point harnesses both sides.
• The rear seat is in excellent shape, as is the entire interior. The bottom cushion of the rear isn't installed, and with the rear-bar of the cage in place I don't know why I bothered putting the rear seat-back cushionin there anyway.
• I've got the matching tan floor mats with logos, brand new.
• The a/c is functional, but I haven't used it in a few years. I tried it just prior to listing and though air blows through the vents it isn't cold air. I suspect it's low on Freon. When it was working, it worked fine.
• The radio includes Bluetooth and has a microphone for hands-free calls.Despite the Boom Mat, the car is anything but quiet so phone calls (hands-free or otherwise) are a waste of time. The front and rear speakers were replaced at the same time the radio went in.
• Window rattle elimination kit for both doors and I had a local body shop take them all the way apart to rebuild them. New power window motors, all the door seals, etc.
• The power sunroof works fine.

I'm sure I'm forgetting plenty of things, but it's been a lot of years. When the car was going together my goal was to make sure it was all as bullet-proof as possible. Cheap stuff doesn't save you money if it just breaks quickly. So if there was a choice, I always went for durability and quality. That goes for the work as well. I would (and have) drive this to work all week, drive it to the track and make a few passes, drive it home, and drive it to work all the next week without any problems.