Mercedes Benz 300SD, 155,8XX miles, no reserve

MB Dealer repairs: Five new glow plugs, low plug indicator light on dash, our-way flashers repaired, iring corrections and repair from aftermarket radio installation, lides repaired for ashtray from aftermarket radio installation, igar lighter repair from aftermarket radio installation, ome other stuff, arbon clean out, eater plug, achometer repair, ruise control diagnosis with pick up at harmonic balancer replaced, uel injector. $1308.05.

MB Dealer repairs: Completed repairs to cruise control with new actuator, epairs to tach again, aulty wiring, djust e-brake, ear brake line(s), rake fluid, leed brakes, eadlights replaced, eplace plastic headlight retaining nuts, omplete repair to cigar lighter, eplace differential seal, efill gear lube, iring repairs, il & filter, rain & fill ATF, rans filter, rans gasket: $1789.00.

MB Dealer repairs: New diesel shut off valve & vacuum box, eplace valve line, ll new V-belts, eplace mounting bracket under turbo charger, eplace rubber buffer, epair air cleaner housing, epair cigar lighter & wiring again, ll oil, luid and filters again, lush & fill cooling system, ore repairs to cruise control, e-charge & Leak down test to AC, ound leak in condenser or possibly drier, eplaced controller, epair windshield washers, epair/replace door stops on left front and rear doors, epair/replace inner door liner(s). $3,467.40.

MB specialty shop, . F. Allen Co., helburne MA: Replace wiper motor, epair wiper motor linkage, eplace fog light bulb, eplace right tie rod, eplace both lower ball joints. $1007.68.

Elite Automotive, est mechanic I have found at real world prices: Replace upper control arms and ball joints, eplace transmission gasket, ilter and ATF (unlike the dealer no leaks this time), epair wire connection to blower motor. $294.09. New parts provided by me, did not keep receipts and the cost is not included above.

I've also bought numerous parts including, ulbs, enses, il filters, ir filters, uel filters, rake pads, pper control arms and ball joints (replaced by Elite) & done maintenance work myself like oil changes, ulbs, tc. but did not keep those receipts.

Second what I know or feel does not work or may need attention and disclosure of things I think someone might find important.

Rust is showing in spots. I checked non-OEM fenders on ebay and elsewhere and they are reasonably priced. I do have about a third or half gallon of the paint the guy who owned it before had it re-sprayed with. This can has been in my garage since I bought the car. It sounds liquid when shaken but may be useless. At least it would be a good reference for color matching. He did re-spray the car the original color. Although I have not inspected the areas affected it does seem to me they could likely be ground down, lassed and re-sprayed. See pictures.

As with many of these cars the driver's seat has a broken support spring. I researched repair fixes on line from de-upholstering and re-wiring the spring(s) in place to stuffing "pool-noodles" into the structure of the seat. I ended up going my own path with a 2/3-size kids football and a piece of Luann for flat support. It works pretty well and allows the seat motor to adjust foot room.

This car does not have power door locks or they simply do not work. To lock the car you push the locks down or lock the driver's or passenger door with the key.

The passenger power outside mirror adjuster stopped working. I just leave the mirror in position. It is hand adjustable. The power windows are sometimes slow.

The wood has some chips around a couple switches where work must have been done at some time to repair or replace a faulty switch.

The plastic covers for the passenger power seat controls are off yet the levers they attached to are present and the power seat works fine with those and is not difficult to operate. The cover parts are in the glovebox.

At some point the original radio was replaced with a pioneer radio/cd player. It runs through the original four speakers and sounds acceptable.

The passenger side hood latch sticks open when the hood release is activated and the hood is raised. I have cleaned the latch and cable with a variety of lubricants and sprays. I simply push the latch lever with my finger prior to closing the hood and the latch (one of three latches) engages fine.

I bought 5 new tires about a year after I bought the car. When I brought them to be mounted it was discovered the spare is a 14" rim while the ones on the ground are 15" . The four wheels on the ground must have been upgraded at some point and the spare was not. With the profiles of the two types the spare has nearly the same overall diameter as those on the ground so it can be used likely for short distances. The fifth tire is included, s new and has never been mounted. A new matching tire is $80. The rear tires are from the front and show wear from poor alignment after the front end work was done, onsider buying one additional tire at some poin to replace those on the rear. I have since had the alignment done. As well the four Continental tires that the car came with are included and have tread that likely will pass inspection, hey are the size for the rims on the ground.

The AC condenser needs to be repaired or replaced & I never did that since I stopped driving the car. I did find one for $175 used but did not follow through on it.

That is all I can think of about the car other than it drives well and gets MPG between 24+ in winterto 26+ in summer depending on ambient temperatures. Keep in mind it is 34 years old.

It took me the summer to come to this decision and finally have for the reasons noted above.

Thank you & ask any questions. If you want to see it let me know & we can schedule some time. I suggest you do this early since my schedule can be demanding without notice. Considering that please be courteous about my time and be a serious buyer who has read what I have written.