1989 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type M
1989 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type M for sale in Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Condition: | Used |
Item location: | Las Vegas, Nevada, United States |
Make: | Nissan |
Model: | Skyline |
Type: | Coupe |
Trim: | GTS-T Type M |
Year: | 1989 |
Mileage: | 148000 |
VIN: | 00000000000000000 |
Color: | Black |
Engine size: | RB20DET |
Number of cylinders: | 6 |
Power options: | Air Conditioning, Power Locks, Power Windows |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Manual |
Drive type: | RWD |
Interior color: | Gray |
Drive side: | Right-hand drive |
Options: | CD Player |
Vehicle Title: | Clear |
Want to buy? | Contact seller! |
Description for Nissan Skyline 1989
VIN: HCR32000817 Mileage is in KMsSelling my 1989 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type M
I bought this car in 2014 and shipped it form Japan using Pacific Coast JDM.
In 2015 the car was in an accident and I replaced the front with a 2nd gen front end. Damage was repaired by Pitstop Performance in Arizona who builds Skylines for racing. The car has some significant mods and makes 320whp. That combined with it's light weight it is really fast.
Selling this car because i'm buying a R33 GTR
Mods:
Stock RB20DET, tomei headgasket.
Tomei turbo elbow, kakimoto exhaust.
Hypergear SS 1.5 turbo, stock mount skyline turbo made in Australia.
550cc Deatschwerks injectors
Nismo fuel pump
Link G4+ with MAF delete setup. Tuned by Church Automotive
BC Racing BR Coilovers
Mishimoto Radiator
Blitz intake and FMIC.
Nismo LMGT2 wheels, including originals as well.
Kenwood head unit and new speakers, hands free setup.
Perrin gauge setup (boost, oil pressure, oil temp)
Greddy boost controller
ACT clutch upgrade
Maintenance:
New suspension and subframe bushings.
Timing belt replaced within the last 8000km
Replaced shifter and e-brake boot leather.
Replaced driver side window regulator
Replaced speedo cable
Replaced light switch
All gaskets has been replaced with a new nissan kit
Replaced trunk and gas latch cable
New coils and plugs
Needs and Issues:
Outside window trim in pot marked
Trunk needs a new latch
Heater core is bypassed, new heater cores are hard to find for R32s and I live in Las Vegas so bypassed it instead of replacing it.
The Bad:
Paint is chipped above the muffler exit. Rubber and plastic bits around windows are solid but not in the best shape. Scratches here and there but nothing too serious.
Heater core obviously needs replacement. Just rerouted it this weekend so watch that area carefully. OEM cores can't be found, need to buy aftermarket and from the UK which takes a few weeks.
Very slight bubbling on the dash, can't notice it unless it's bright out. Phone camera can't really capture it.
Under the battery there is corrosion. This also affected the driver side frame rail slightly. Pitstop Performance inspected and repaired it. When I got the car it had a leaky battery. Only part of the car that has any corrosion what so ever. The rest is perfect.
The Good:
AC works perfectly, extremely cold.
Fast obviously.
I had an extensive budget so I haven't cut corners and used the best tuners and repair specialists in the south west.
Extremely excellent handling car.
Rare LMGT2 wheels that had restored.
If you live in a pump 93 state or want to upgrade to E85 or go flex fuel it's perfect. I pretty muich have a great ECU setup and ditching MAF makes these cars way more reliable.
I don't drag race, drop the clutch, or drive like a maniac. Transmission is solid.
Car is overall solid though I don't recommend a car like this as a DD (due to sometimes weeks to find parts) you could probably do it. Had it for 5 years and drove to work once a week and kept up with regular maintenance.
Recommendations:
If I were to keep this car I would probably go for an electric fan setup and switch to a twin scroll turbo setup as well. This turbo has aluminum wheels and is dual ball bearing but it comes on a bit late for street driving at like 4000rpm. Of course you can always do the RB25 swap, which this turbo would be perfect for as well. The ECU in the car also would work well with a RB25 if you plan on doing that. I would also replace the boost gauge with a water temp gauge since the boost controller and boost gauge are redundant.