1923 Ford Model T Roadster Hot Rod Rat Rod Oldsmobile SCTA

Description for Ford Model T 1923

-Original body with a lot of subtle modifications including lowering the top rear edg, xtended belt line on the cowl, 30/'31 model A firewall, ll new floors and body substructure.
-Turtle deck needs work or to be replaced but is there and is not rusted. The deck lid is a new piece - it is bolted onto the deck.
-Custom/modified windshield posts and chopped windshield frame, ll freshly chromed
-Original T radiator shell with the cap opening filled. The shell has been stretched a couple inches -Aluminum radiator with an electric fan. I built a new housing for the fan from scratch which disguises it very well and it is not an eyesore
-'38 Olds dash, ot finished and needs work. Honest to God I can't remember but the gauge cluster is from but they are not connected, believe the speedometer would work. There is a secondary panel under the dash with oil pressure and water temp gauges, long with another oil pressure and a vacuum gauge in the firewall.
-'50 Oldsmobile steering wheel with the main hoop reduced to 16" diameter. It is still a tight fit in the car with this wheel but I fit ok. The car would fit just about anyone with a different steering wheel, but I run this one because I love how it looks.
-Scratch built seat with fresh upholstery
-Full custom frame with '32 framerails, cratch built front and center crossmembers, rear crossmember.
-Posies quarter elliptic springs up front
-Fully chromed front end with V8-60 axle
-Chromed Lincoln Bendix style brakes from Wilson Welding at all 4 corners
-F1 pedal assembly, ustang dual reservoir master cylinder
-'40 Ford steering box converted to side steer
-'40 style axle bells on a Rodsville quickchange (Halibrand V8 reproduction) with '35/'36 wishbones and a torque tube out back
-16" Ford steel wheels all around, eal 3.5" wide V8-60 up front and 5" wide in the rear. New 4.50 and 7.50 Firestone bias ply tires
-'42 hubcaps and '40 "inner" beauty rings, nd ribbed "outer" beauty rings
-Fully rebuilt and machined '49 303 Oldsmobile engine
-.030 pistons, 010 crank and rod bearings, ill rebuild kit from Egge
-'49 heads with hardened ex. seats, ew guides, tock valves, ew springs, ildly ported mostly just tapering the guides and blending the seats. Seats, uides, alve job and surfacing done by Wild Wes Engine in Giddings Texas, ort work and assembly by me.
-'56+ 1.8:1 rocker arm assemblies
-Cam reground by Norfleet in Dallas "mild street", ut I do not have the specs
-Edmunds 2x2 intake with carb pads remachined to fit Stromberg 97's (new carburetors)
-New water pump, il pump, iming, tc., verything you'd expect of a full rebuild
-I personally did all machine work on the block and every bit of the assembly. My previous job was an engine machinist in Dallas at Republic Custom Engine. The engine runs fantastic and has never missed a beat!
-Headers built with Geardrive parts, hey are baffled
-'49 distributor with original Mallory dual point conversion
-Oil filter adapter to use common spin-on filter
-11" clutch, -finger style and it's pretty stiff but works excellent
-'39 style transmission, t's a 78 truck case with side-shift gears and a '39 shifter. It is rebuild with NOS Ford synchro rings and all new bearings and while it doesn't shift like butter, t does a pretty good job.
-Holley Blue electric fuel pump with filter and regulator
-"Denso" mini alternator, 5 amps
I had planned on tearing the car apart for bodywork and paint this winter, ut have found another project I would really like to have and think it's worth selling the T to get. The car runs and drives great. The handling is pretty good and it steers better than any hot rod I've ever driven (that didn't have a Vega steering box at least). The car has a vibration at about 65-70 mph that I have narrowed down to one of the rear wheels/tires but not found the definite source. I did some preliminary bodywork on the main body tub before I primed it and it will still need more work and blocking before it is paint ready. The turtle deck was an ok piece that I cut up trying to change the proportions to my liking and it has not been finished and honestly is a little twisted. The car settled a lot after being together and the deck hit the rear axle quite a bit, utting some dents in it. I have since added some leaves to the rear spring and it has plenty of clearance now. In the paint/bodywork phase I was going to start from scratch with another deck, r make one from scratch. The whole car is in grey sealer, ot just primer, o it is sealed up and you don't have to worry about oils or moisture seeping down to the metal underneath.
The entire build thread can be found on the HAMB message board under "'24 T Roadster Build"
PLEASE NOTE! Some of the pictures show the car wearing '46 Mercury hubcaps. Those are no longer on the car and do not come with it. The '42 Ford caps and '40 "inner" beauty rings are currently on it. Some pictures also show a '55 Chevy steering wheel on the car - it is no longer on the car and does not come with it. The '50 Olds wheel is what you will get. The club plaque which is mounted to the dash board and the Iskenderian Cam tag on the firewall DO NOT come with the car.